187 – How to Build a Knife Block

187 – How to Build a Knife Block

Voiceover:The Wood
Whisperer is sponsored by Powermatic the gold standard since 1921, and Clear Vue Cyclones, clear
the air and breathe easy. Marc:The cool thing with
these I Can Do The Projects is not only do they focus on
the simple set of tools, they focus on important
and fundamental joinery. In this case you have to
make these interlocking finger joints on the knife
block that really reinforce the same techniques that you
would use to make dovetails. It’s a neat thing to do in
a slightly simpler version, and again reinforcing the fundamentals. The one they made was out of oak, and I’m going to use this big old of hunk and slab of maple back here. If you can, I recommend getting
one that is the full width, so you don’t have to
any glue up to get the nine inch width that
you need to make this. Keep in mind if you have
a smaller set of knives, you don’t necessarily need to
make yours nine inches tall. You can bring it down a little bit, but I’m going to go for the
full nine because I happen to have a piece here that’s
about nine and a quarter. The challenge though is I
don’t have anything that can joint this with, I only
have an eight inch jointer. So, this exceeds the
capacity of my jointer. We’re going to have to use some
hand planes to clean up one side and then I’ll be able
to pass it through the planer to clean up the other side. It’s something we haven’t
really done much on the show, but it’s a great way to
flatten at least one side without going nuts with the hand tools. Just doing enough so that
you can use your power tools, if that’s the way you choose to go. It’s certainly the way I’m going to go. Let’s just dive right in and start hacking away at this piece of maple. I should be able to get all four pieces out of this one chunk of maple. Normally I’d start by jointing one face, but as you can see my
jointer isn’t wide enough. I’m going to have to flatten
one face with a hand plane. If there is a cup in the
board I can save time by keeping the cup side
up while hand planing. With the board firmly
secured in my vice I mark the entire face with a marker
to help gauge my progress. If all goes as expected I’ll only remove material from the outside edges. (planer softly scraping) I start by taking quick light
(planer softly scraping) passes across the grain from the
(planer softly scraping) inside out with my number five,
(planer softly scraping) and I repeat the process
(planer softly scraping) on the other side.
(planer softly scraping) If the board is pretty flat to begin with we shouldn’t have too much to worry about, but I check my progress just to see if there’s any high spots and I
mark them with a marker again. These are the areas that
I’ll focus my attention on in the next round of planning. Even if we end up with two
flat and straight outside edges that certainly doesn’t mean that they’re both in the same plane. I check across the grain
for any major issues. Now I just clean up the high areas.
(planer scraping) (planer scraping) At this point I like to
take a few passes with the grain to make sure that it’s flat and smooth across the length of the board When I get a full length shaving I can be pretty confident that the
surface is nice and flat. Once again I check my progress, and make any adjustments as needed. Keep in mind this is a very quick and dirty way of doing this process. I don’t need absolute
perfection and I don’t really need a set of winding sticks here. I just need the board
to lay flat and stable as I pass it through the planer. With the planed side down, a couple passes through the planer
flattens the other side. A quick flip, and a single pass gives us a board with two flat and parallel faces. (jointer revving) A quick trip to the jointer
gives me a 90 degree edge, and finally I can slice the
(band saw revving) board in half with the band saw.
(band saw revving) After resawing the faces
do tend to warp a little, so a couple passes with the hand plane again gets things ready for the planer. (planer scraping) Now I use the planer to bring the boards down to a half inch thick. (planer revving) At the table saw I trim the boards
(table saw revving) down to nine inches wide.
(table saw revving) Then each board is cross cut
(table saw revving) to create two sides,
(table saw revving) and a stop lock ensures accuracy.
(table saw revving) (table saw revving) Using the diagram in
the plan as referenced, I lay out the jointery on one
of the larger side pieces. Instead of laying it out
again on the second piece, I simply transfer the marks directly by butting them up against each other. Because of the risk of
cross grain tearout, I’m using the marking gauge
to score my reference line. This will also help later when it’s time to do the chiseling. Now we’re going to cut out
the waste with the jigsaw. Get a blade that has really fine teeth, like the one on the left the one on the right would just be too aggressive. Slowly make each cut keeping
(hand saw revving) your blade in the waste area,
(hand saw revving) and don’t go all the
(hand saw revving) way to the back line.
(hand saw revving) It’s hard to keep the saw
(hand saw revving) perfectly level and it’s very
(hand saw revving) likely that your blade is
(hand saw revving) going to travel further than
(hand saw revving) you realize on the underside
(hand saw revving) where you can’t see it.
(hand saw revving) To get the material out
from between the fingers, make several relief cuts
and then a couple cuts across the grain to clean the bulk out. Again, don’t go right up to the line. (hand saw revving) In the article the Schwarz
recommends measuring the base of the jigsaw and using a
straightedge as a guide. I don’t know about you
guys, but running a jigsaw along a straightedge has
never really worked for me. Maybe it’s just the way I’m doing it, but I tried it and of
course my blade wandered. You can actually see my
little screw up right here. So, I won’t be doing that again. If you want my recommendation
take your time and go freehand you can clean everything
up with a chisel later on. To do the final clean up on these joints you’ll need a nice sharp chisel. Begin by clamping down the
(hammering) board on the sacrificial
(hammering) surface and start chiseling
(hammering) away the excess, once you have
as much removed as possible rest the chisel on the score
line and chop down firmly. Just don’t go more than half way. Once we get that crisp line
established we’re going to flip the board over and repeat the
process on the other side. Once both sides are cleaned
up I use a small chisel to pare away any remaining
stock in the middle. Don’t worry if you dish
it out a bit that won’t affect the final fit
and finish in any way. It’s a good idea to check
your progress with a square. And now it’s time to transfer our jointery to the smaller side pieces. Just stack one side on top of the other, and transfer the locations of the fingers using a blade or a sharp pencil. At this point there could
be some slight variation from joint to joint so
it’s important to label each one and keep the
orientation straight. Cutting the jointery for these
pieces is exactly the same as before so there’s no
need to show it again. But remember, cut on the
waste side of the line, and that’s absolutely necessary
if you want a decent fit. After a test fit you can
use the chisel to make any adjustments that are necessary. I lucked out today because I had almost no adjustments to make. (hand sander whirring) Finally each piece gets
a thorough sanding. If you’re relatively new
to woodworking you may not realize that the process
we’ve just gone through is very similar to cutting
hand cut dovetails. I used the jigsaw for some
of it and you might use a hand saw if you’re
actually cutting dovetails so you can get a really
nice fine controlled cut. But really the process is
almost exactly the same. So, pat yourself on the
back if you got this far, because it really is just like dovetails. The knife block is a
relatively simple project, not really the kind of
project that you want to get too uptight about
absolute perfection. It’s a fun project, it’s a simple project. You can knock it out in a
weekend and it’s one of those projects that I don’t know sometimes I like to throw perfection to the side, and sometimes work on
a little bit of speed. Let’s see how fast I can get this done, and still get decent acceptable results. What I’m noticing here is the
wood has moved a little bit since I cut it and I
planed it down yesterday, and did the jointery
today, and in my climate it’s so dry that things
can change very quickly. I’ve got a little bit
of warping to deal with, but I don’t think it’s
anything I won’t be able to clamp out during the glue up. The other thing to notice on
mine there are a few places where the blade on the
jigsaw veered off course, and went off on a slight angle. That’s one of the risks
you’re going to run by using a jigsaw for this operation,
so I recommend staying a little bit further away
from the line and just use your chisel later to chisel
right back to your scribe line. One other thing that I did
when I was marking mine out, and I mentioned before it’s
very important that you know exactly what side of the line to cut on. The first round of cuts we
did on these pieces right? It doesn’t exactly matter,
I could actually have taken the chisel and I could
have gone back a whole another quarter inch and opened that up. The important thing is
to make sure that when I transfer this to my other
piece that’s the one that I need to get absolutely perfect. This can be any length any
dimension we want it to be, but when I scribe the lines
on here now I need to know what side of that line
am I going to cut on. The rule of thumb, and this
goes for when you cut dovetails as well is the rule of thumb is to keep your blade in the waste area. Okay, so if this is the waste
we would want our blade to be on this side of the line and you want to make sure that you leave that line. I do not want to consume
the line with my blade, and that’s just a rule of thumb. What that winds up doing is
some of the joints may be just a little bit too tight but at least none of them will be too loose. As an example I did do one of them, just wasn’t really paying
attention, and I cut my line, and actually went into my pencil line, and it wound up being a loose joint. Well, that’s just the way things go. I’d rather again have tight
fitting joints, and chisel back. Pare it back to the absolute perfect fit as opposed to having a
joint that’s too loose. But once again I just want
to stress that this is really not the kind of project
that you need to worry about absolute perfection,
it’s a skill building project that brings you up to the next level. Now all I need to do is round
(sand paper grating) over these edges because these
(sand paper grating) are going to sit proud on each
(sand paper grating) side we just want to ease
(sand paper grating) the corners a little bit makes
(sand paper grating) them look a little bit nicer.
(sand paper grating) And we need to cut a little
piece for the bottom, but that gets inserted afterwards. After that the next step
will be the glue up. Okay, so for the glue
up I’ve got some epoxy, and one of my little Dixie cups here. I’m using a high density
filler, the slow setting epoxy is very loose, very runny, so
I like to use some of this. It’s basically a white powder filler, and that thickens it up a little bit. Makes it a little less likely to run all over the place while
I’m doing this glue up. It’s pretty light colored,
give it a good mix. Now that’s consistency I’m a little bit more comfortable working with. Just start painting the joints, and putting this thing together. You can see it takes a
little bit longer than you might expect to get all these
areas covered sufficiently. So, a slow setting glue
is not just a good idea, but might just be necessary,
if you’re racing the clock at this point you’re
looking at a potentially bad glue up which is never
fun at this point in the game. (snap tap) We’ll get some clamps in there, and then we will check it for square. Okay, the clamp isn’t going to fit here, it’s touching the outer fingers. Just got a couple pieces of
scrap tape them to that surface. See another good reason
for that slow setting glue. There we go, you see we
still have a gap here. Even though we’ve got the
pressure applied on that side, it looks like it’s
almost all the way over, but not quite it still
needs some help here. This little box is going
to get a lot of clamps. Before I tighten everything
all the way down, I need to close up this gap here. This thing is starting to look
like some kind of a puzzle, but you really do need all
this extra clamping pressure. It looks like we’re nice
and square which is good. With a set up like this if
those joints are each cut nice and square, nice and
straight you shouldn’t have a problem with it
being out of square. Once you apply clamping pressure it’s kind of like a self squaring set up. Fortunately that worked out for us, and what I would recommend doing though is checking for square after
you apply maybe two or three clamps when you still have an opportunity to do something about it and
most of the time if it is a little bit out you can kind
of just even with your hands just kind of tweak it into position, and then reapply your clamping pressure. We’re good in pretty much every direction. Fortunately, we don’t have
to make any adjustments. If I did have anything major
to do I’d probably take three or four clamps off and if
nudging it doesn’t work then you take one of these clamps, and you clamp from corner to corner. Whichever one is the offending corner, and you kind of skew it
into the proper shape. I let that dry overnight
and of course we’ve got a little bit of clean up to do. I couldn’t quite get a rag
or anything in there with all those clamps on it but that’s okay. A little chisel and a
scraper should be enough to get any of that excess epoxy off. But the really important thing
now is that we actually get this thing so that it sits nice and flat. Almost inevitably there’s going to be a little bit of unevenness there. Put it down on a surface that
you know to be pretty much flat and just rock it back and forth. By doing that you can tell
which corners are high. When I turn it upside down
I could tell that this corner was a little high and
this corner was a little high. All I really have to do
is mark it with my pencil, and I could feel a little ridge there so I know it is slightly skewed. I mark it with my pencil then
I’m going to put it into the vice and just use a block
plane to clean it up. (planer scraping) Just a couple passes, and just be sure to take more off toward the end. Take a couple extra passes there. Then I’ll go a little further, few more. Easy enough to do, a nice
sharp block plane though really makes this a simple task. That is much better, no rock. Now if you’ve been watching The
Wood Whisperer for some time you’ve probably seen me
make a number of mistakes, and I’m never shy about
showing those errors, and showing how I go about fixing them. But usually what I wind up coming up with is more of a wood solution. If I’ve got a crack or a gap I like to fill it with wood when possible. But one thing we don’t talk
nearly enough about is fillers. You can make your own at
home, and get a decent match. But sometimes a commercial
filler really is the best way to go and will give you the best results. But keep in mind not all
fillers are created equal. If you just go grab something
off the shelf at Home Depot you may not be really
happy with the result. A lot of times it doesn’t
take stain real well, it’s got a real nasty
odor and it can shrink and actually crack and sort
of like if your doing some mud on a drywall and you put
too thick of a layer of mud it’ll shrink and crack as it dries. What I recommend specifically
this is hands down the best filler I’ve ever used. I may have mentioned it in the past, it’s a Timbermate Wood Filler. This stuff is made by a company
in Australia, it’s water based, it doesn’t shrink, it
takes stain beautifully. I find that the colors that they claim, for instance this one is
maple, beach and pine, because they’re all in the same
family of color really does match really well, and it’s
great for hiding mistakes that you really don’t
have any other way to fix. What I’ve got here is a crack
that resulted from the jigsaw, little mishap that I had and
I figure why the heck not. Let’s try a little wood filler,
see if we can use that as a quick fix and let’s see
how the results turn out. Nothing real complicated here I’m just going drive it into this crack. If you want you can always
use blue tape to mark off some of this wood so that the
filler doesn’t stain the wood. But in this case I’ve got
to do some sanding still, I’m really not too worried about it. All right, let’s give
that a few minutes to dry. Let’s clean it up with a little bit of sanding and see how it turned out. (sandpaper scratching) All right not too bad, bottom line is this is better than a black gaping hole. With a little finish on there I think it’s actually going to look pretty good. Before I apply the finish
let’s take a look at the bottom here and I’ve
already cut this piece. It’s just a half inch thick piece of maple that’s going to go right
in the center here. You may be wondering is this going to cause a wood movement issue? It could I guess, but it’s
going to live in your kitchen. It’s only a few inches
across it’s probably not going to be that big of a deal. If you’re concerned about it
I would suggest using plywood, or use maybe a rift saw and
recorder saw and piece of material that’s not going to
expand much across its width. But I’m going to take
my chances here it’s a fun little project why the heck not. The other thing is as you
just place it in there you’re literally just
cutting it to size here. There’s really nothing
tricky, if you can get a nice tight fit you may not
even need anything like brad nails on this because
you’ll get a decent long grain glue bond along
the side of this piece. That’s what I’ve got here
so I may shoot a couple of 23 gauge pins or something through there, but I want to see how well
it holds with the glue here. If I get a nice tight fit I
may not need the brads at all. It’s a light duty piece you know, I doubt it’s really going
to be much of an issue. Plus when we put our bamboo
sticks or the whatever you want to call them the little skewers
in here we’re going to be putting a bed of epoxy in the
bottom to hold those in place. That epoxy is going to seep
into any cracks and corners and everything and just hold
everything together down there. So, not too concerned
about securing this bottom any more than what I’m doing here. Probably going to need a
little help of a hammer. (hammer tapping) I would leave that panel just
about a 64th of an inch proud, and this way I could sand,
scrape or use a plane to smooth everything out and
just make it look really nice. What would have been the more elegant way to have handled this bottom? Of course you could have
treated it like a draw bottom. We could of put a grove
all the way around, all four sides and had that
panel sit inside that grove. Certainly would have been I
think a better way of doing it. But we’re trying to
keep things simple here. One of the reasons that
would of been complicated is we would of needed to
make a stopped grove. These two, the skinny sides
the grove can go all the way through because this side here blocks it. You don’t see it from the end grain, but what would happen if we put a grove on the inside of this piece
all the way across? It would have been visible
out here on the end grain. We would have had to
create a stopped grove, and the way that we usually do
that is with a router we just don’t go all the way
through and then you could square off the end if you
need to with a chisel. I just wanted to keep
it on the simple side, and not worry about that right now. We’ve covered those things in other shows, and it’s certainly a
fundamental thing that you will want to get good at doing, but in this case sometimes I just think it’s fun to have a project
that you don’t have to do the very best techniques you really want to just reinforce some fundamentals. This is interesting this
will be a nice little experiment to see how
that bottom holds up, and if it creates any
problems for me later. Honestly, I don’t think it will though. I’m going to let this dry,
sand it nice and smooth, and then we can work on the finish. All right, so the finish that we’re going to use today is General Finishes. High performance, it’s water
based and this is a satin. All I’m going to do is
pour it through my filter. That’ll get any sediment, any impurities, any crap that might be in that
can, and filter it all out. This is just a standard paint filter. You guys have seen me use those before. I get them by the case
on Amazon pretty cheap. You can see this stuff is
running through pretty quickly. It’s going to be no problem spraying it straight from the can, I
could dilute it a little bit. With water based stuff you don’t really want to go more than 10 percent. If you’re just going
to use water you could actually screw up the finish
if you go much more than that. In this case I don’t really
think I need to do anything. As soon as this is done dripping. Close enough, you wonder why
my surface on the bench top here looks so dirty it’s
because I’m not patient. All right, let’s spray. (rhythmic music) After about four coats of
finish with some sanding in between with 320, 400
and then 600 grit I end up with a really nice beautiful
and very simple satin finish. Now we have to look at the bamboo sticks. These are just little skewers that you could buy from a supermarket. I got mine from Walmart they
were about a buck for a bag, and each bag has about a
100, it seems like we’re going to need roughly 1,000 or so. If I remember Chris’s
recommendation correctly. I also had someone, in fact it
was nerdy dude from Twitter, who sent me a link to an online source that was even cheaper than that. I only wish I would have
gotten that link sooner. But again if you need to get them locally you can Walmart was where I went. The problem is you need
to cut these guys down. The web source that I saw
incidentally had them in shorter lengths so you
may be able to completely skip this step if you do that but the ones that I have are a little bit too long. Cutting these is going to
be a little bit tricky. You don’t really want
to use your miter saw, because that can be dangerous as you got all these little tiny pieces. Even if you tape them together
it’s still not a great idea. We’re just going to use a hand saw. It’s going to be this
little fine tooth dozuki. What I like to do is grab some blue tape, and just anywhere you can
get a good grip start rolling the tape around and just
get a nice, also make sure use the points on a flat
surface make sure everything is nice and even and then wrap it around. That’s going to help
immobilize everything, and keep it nice and
tight because otherwise it’s going to be impossible to saw. So, I double check make
sure they’re all down. I’m going to measure, I’m going with about eight and 1/8th of an inch here. Put a little pencil mark and then I’m going to cover that
area with tape as well. Nice and tight if you can get it. Since I just covered my
pencil mark with my tape, I’m going to transfer the mark again. One thing you’ll notice I’m
referencing from the pointy side because I want the
pointy side to be up. If you look at the pictures
the way Chris did it he has the flat side facing up. For me if I’m going to be
jamming knives in there I’m in favor of something that’s tapered. It might accept the knife
blades a little bit better. It’s going to be recessed
below the surface. I’ve already cut a few
here, they’re already about a quarter of an inch below the surface. So there’s really no risk
of poking your finger, or getting cut or anything like that. I really prefer to have
the pointy side up. Let’s go ahead and make this cut. We’ll take our time it’s not
going to be a fast process. (dozuki saw filing) Done, as you can see it’s
going to take quite a few. To secure all of the bamboo to
the bottom of this box here, the easiest thing to do is
just drop some glue down there. It’s pretty well sealed
up all I need to do is mix up a little bit of this epoxy. I did a little double shot
from my epoxy pumps over there. Added a little bit of
this high density filler just to kind of I don’t
want it to be too runny. I want it to at least sit
in a puddle on the bottom. Give it a real good mix and then
I’m just going to pour it in and try and spread it around a little bit. All right, let’s pour it in. Well really this is pretty self leveling. Not going to need a
whole lot of help here. Okay and now the fun
part adding the skewers. (skewers tapping) I guess the easiest thing to
do would be to tilt this up on its side and let gravity
help us with the skewers. The problem I see with
that though is the epoxy is going to run all over the place. So, I will probably get
a bunch of these in here, and then worry about
straightening them out. After I get it maybe three quarters full. (rhythmic music) Okay, so I’m going to tilt this
up on an angle and see if we can’t get these to stack in
some sort of orderly fashion. It doesn’t have to be perfect. You can see why at this
point it’s really important to have a glue with a long working time. Because I’ve got this
luxury of taking my time, and making sure these are all placed in the way that I want them to be. You got to think about how many knives are you going to put in this thing. If you’ve got plans on
putting a whole bunch in here you might want to leave
a few extra skewers out. Give yourself a little bit
of extra space to work with. That’s probably what I’m
going to use mine for is the larger butcher knives so I will probably keep mine a
little bit less packed. What’s really fun about
this is it’s different. It’s different than
anything I’ve ever done. Using the bamboo skewers something for the kitchen like this and something that’s actually very
practical at the same time. Projects like this are a nice diversion from the usual stuff that
we might make in the shop. It doesn’t help to
grease the wheels if your significant other
happens to enjoy cooking. It’s a nice addition to any kitchen. Well it certainly wasn’t
one of the most difficult projects we’ve ever made but definitely one of the most fun and memorable. I hope you guys take a chance
to build a knife block of your own and I’d love to see your
variations on this theme. I know I’ve got a few ideas
locked in my head that unfortunately I just don’t
have the time to do right now but they involve suspending
this thing so that it swivels, and just I’ve got a
couple cool little ideas that I’m going to play with
in the future but for now we’ve got to move on to the
wall hanging tool chest. But this is just one of those great little projects that you can knock
out in two or three days. I definitely recommend downloading the plan and building one yourself. Until next time thanks for watching. (twangy music)

100 Replies to “187 – How to Build a Knife Block”

  1. hey marc i have a question. i do mostly turning and im looking to get a band saw for simple cuts and im only looking to spend at most 800 dollars. what do you think i should get?

  2. Maybe I missed it – why are you using epoxy rather than a typical "wood" glue? Because of the potential exposure to water/moisture? I know Titebond II is supposed to be water resistant.

    I really appreciate your style. Not just doing step-by-step but covering many other scenarios that one might encounter and even showing mistakes, etc…. Totally impressed! I'm just getting in to it all myself and you are an inspiration.

  3. Thanks for the kind words. I used epoxy for two reasons: working time and gap-filling properties. Regular wood glue would have probably worked just because of the shear number of sticks in there. But the bond wouldn't be all that great. Still, probably enough. I just like to go overkill when I can. 🙂

  4. Oh in that case, probably just for the sake of working time. PVA glue dries so fast in my area that I probably reach for the epoxy more often than most woodworkers.

  5. why can't you send the board through the planer without jointing or hand planing one side? we dont do that at our school woodshop

  6. Generally speaking, the "proper" way to do it is to flatten one face first on the jointer. If you don't, you might end up with a curved board. If the board is mostly flat to begin with, you can sometimes get away with skipping the jointing process.

  7. Hi Marc, I've been woodworking for 5 years now, I started freshman year of high school. I haven't built many pieces of furniture yet, but I haven't been satisfied with anything I've built. Part of which can be blamed for improper tecnique or simply learning the craft, but for the most part, they are just poorly made. My question is have you ever built anything that you just didn't like how it turned out? Also, do you have any tips for getting out of a woodworking rut? Thanks

  8. Hey Mark. There have been at least a few times I wasn't satisfied with the final product. But it was something that happened more when I was first learning the craft. Over time you learn how to make the whole process a little more predictable. As for ruts, I always recommend taking a break. Read about woodworking in your off time as a way of getting the juices flowing. But if you're doing it for fun, there's no reason to push through.

  9. Why even glue the sticks in? Then you could tilt the box to put them in without worrying about the epoxy gluing them together.

  10. I'm wondering for the cutting of the bamboo sticks if you could have done something like using pruning shears to get them close to the right length. And then bundling them up like you did and getting the exact length by holding them against a vertical sander. Maybe cutting 1000 bamboo sticks with pruning shears might take some time… but lining them up on the edge of a table so that the waste part hangs over the edge and then just going to town on them with the shears. I dunno. A possibility.

  11. Where do you obtain your supply of wood. I've used pallet wood and I've found it's low quality and I've heared that you can get cuttings from hardware stores very cheaply but I'm not sure if most of it isn't just plywood(Chippy stuff). I know of a woodworking store but I'm fourteen and not with much money. Do you have any idea as to where I can get wood affordably?

  12. Personally, I'm not big on making my own power tools. If it's going to spin a blade, I prefer it be made from metal or high density plastics. 🙂

  13. Hello, you've said so little about painting and sanding that I was thinking if you have videos only about finishing. Do you?

  14. Really interesting! Btw. about cutting bamboo sticks, I guess you could just sandwich the sticks between two pieces of wood and use a chisel to cut off the extra lengths.

  15. Not only that, but his comments towards his viewers are less than appropriate. Not everyone has to be an engineer to be intelligent. You do better work my friend…a true artist and woodworker, not selling a recipe for disaster!

  16. re. 6:45 my advice would be to never use a jigsaw. I can't imagine any use for them that another power tool or hand tool wouldn't do the job better. They are just so inaccurate.

  17. Зачем ручной труд? Если все равно используете механические машины. ????

  18. Could you not create a rabbit on the bottom all the way around and then pop it in that way your bottom comes outside your sides and will seal much better.

  19. Yes but we were intentionally limiting the number of tools used in this project. A router wasn't on the list for this one.

  20. You talked about that being your favorite wood filler. Can you give is more details on it like manufacturer and retail location to purchase it (Rockler, Woodcraft, etc.)

  21. Hi Marc!! Would you be interest in building one of my design. I am a furniture designer, not a furniture maker. I dont have a shop nor an experience to make this design come to life. Money is a major factor. You build it, You sell it. You keep it. Its yours. In return. I just want to see it come to life. Here is my Email. [email protected] Give this design a look. Tell me what you think.

  22. Hi Marc. I've watched most of the videos you have posted here on Youtube, and wanted to thank you. Watching you has brought my skills to a new level, and made me re-evaluate the way I was doing a lot of things. This project, in particular, inspired me to make this knife block for my wife. Thanks again!


  23. thanks
    could you recommend a bandsaw ive been looking for one but never had one so i dont know whats good and whats not …

  24. Your best bet is to look at some of the magazine reviews and comparisons. there are a lot of different brands out there. But from what I hear, folks really dig Rikon's offerings these days. Grizzly also have some reasonably-priced units out there. Buying used is a great option too and saves a bunch of of money.

  25. Wood Whisperer, why did you choose to use the jig saw over the band saw? I'm new to wood working, but I think the band saw would give you a front to back  equivalent cut than the jig saw. What do you think?

  26. +1 on the clamping pressure! I just did a long box that had larger finger joints and buying those extra clamps was the best decision I ever made! I found out how much a project can bow if you just throw a few clamps on, having even pressure keeps it all square!

  27. we did a similar project to this in wood shop in school. when we put the Skewer we left them in the small bundles put more tape up around the pointed end. Then we removed all the rest of the tape and before the epoxy dried we just went back with an xacto knife with a long blade and just cut the tape off that way. Then filled in a bit more with just loose ones because with the bundles you won't be able to fill it all in. Just an idea for anyone wanting to try this project out and to make it little less frustrating. 

  28. When cutting the bamboo sticks/skewers, wouldn't it be simpler and easier to use a Pringles tube? "Overstuff" it with skewers, and you can simply cut through the tube at the correct length with any kind of saw.

  29. How do you keep the workshop so clean ? I see the dust coming from the power tools, like the plainer , is collected in a tube. Do you also run a vacuum to collect the dust at the same time as the plainer ? P. S. sorry if my English is bad.

  30. Neat project. Thanks. Epoxy is no longer considered 'food grade'. Epoxy resin is about 90% Bisphenol-A, which is now banned for products children might put in their mouths.  (But still a great material.)
    The basic concept of your box is really neat. I wonder if it couldn't be slightly tapered, tighter at the bottom and one long side simply screwed on. The skewers would be packed in with 3 sides and the bottom (tilted to level them) then the 4th side screwed down to 'clamp' them. Of course I'm suggesting this because I'll never get around to making one. I don't need it…but I'm going to hang on to the terrific concept.

  31. You are a good woodworker but not the best cook. How can you keep clean your block without picking out the bamboo sticks?  Don't glue them. 

  32. Obviously this is some YOUTUBE or TV show, if so, why the pile of IRWIN clamps, tripping hazard in back ground? Who are you insured by?

  33. to get the skewers in easier, a big rubber band is a big help.. you can cut one out of an old inner tube or get them from rockler or woodcraft…
    fill in the skewers in the box without the glue in the bottom, put on a lid of cardboard.. turn it upside down and lift up until the skewers are out about a 3rd of the way then lay  the box on its side and put the rubber band around the skewers.. they roughly hold the shape of the box when you take them out.
    put your epoxy in the bottom, re-insert the pack of skewers removing the rubber band as they slide in .. done!

  34. What if you do not have the machine planer and band saw? What are the alternatives. I need to make a block for my two tool knives. (one is a flat metal camping knife and the other is a kitchen's and chief's utility knife.)

  35. I've found that Jigsaws and straight edges don't work well for fine work. The edge takes your eye out of the equation and the grain of the wood will cause the blade to flex and wander slightly and when your planted against the edge your hands can't adjust. "Trust your feelings Luke"

  36. Thank you for the video! Very nice project, definetely a nice way to grow some skills when you're a beginner (like I am) while still doing something that's usefull and looks great. Just gonna share a few things I did differently, in case that helps someone. I used a fast epoxy for the bambu sticks (about 5 minutes before starting to dry), and it actually helped a lot, as the epoxy was way stiffer, I was able to tilt the box vertically without the epoxy moving, and insert the sticks was way easier, in a very orderly fashion, very quickly. I also added a glass panel on the front side, to make a mix with TabLeft Workshop design (?v=wRC3Pj3rjuM) and the result was pretty cool. So, again, thank you very much for the video, the idea, and the nice explanations that go with it.

  37. First thing I think of, is why glue down the skewers? I know how much dust/nasties can build up in areas that you can't clean, and I'd just leave the skewers loose so you can remove them occasionally to clean out the knife block. Just my two cents

  38. made one like this and used a shallow layer of rice in the bottom to absorb any moisture and skewers in points down, no glue. 10 years going and still works a charm. It gets daily use and haven't replaced skewers yet.

  39. is it just me.. or are using skewers a cheap way of avoiding any real woodworking? its a box and some sticks.. i mean.. come on.

  40. You are so great at explaining things. As a novice woodworker, I really appreciate that. And so level-headed for an Italian! Ha. Thanks again for all your great content. -Josh, Central FL

  41. man , just found your channel a few months ago. as over this summer got myself into woodworking, crafting.
    Love it all man, hope your still popping out vids. i see this is a few years old:Plol

  42. What are your thoughts on ripping the board with a thin kerf, jointing/planing all sides, and regluing it up? Done right, should be nearly invisible and should cut down the work time considerably if you have any serious cupping/bowing.

  43. To add the skewers in… give yourself a free hand by cutting a wedge with a piece of scrap that will fit into the block and allow you to put the skewers in with out falling over.

  44. The Wood whisperer how do you decide how many teeth, how wide etc for the joint? Is it only aesthetic or is it also linked to the wood thickness?

  45. I'm not entirely convinced the epoxy at the bottom is entirely necessary to hold the bamboo skewers in. Only time I'd say it would come in handy would be if you were moving, but you could just use masking tape in transit.

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