How to Install a High Tensile Electric Fence System by Zareba® (Complete Guide)

How to Install a High Tensile Electric Fence System by Zareba® (Complete Guide)



The Zareba High Tensile Fence System, the
superior choice to contain your lifestyle. Consider the benefits of Zareba High Tensile Fencing. No barbs means no cuts and abrasions to
your animals. An installation that is safer for you! And unlike woven fences, your animals won't
get tangled and trapped in a weave. Layout and design is simplified with Zareba's
revolutionary fence planner application. And installing
a single strand of wire as opposed to twisted barb or weaves means
installation is easy. High tensile wire, when strung and strain to the
recommended 250 pounds of tension, withstands up to 2,000 pounds of livestock
pressure, and that's per strand. High tensile wire fencing has been used
extensively for over 50 years without rusting. Plan on your high tensile
insulation to last a lifetime! A high tensile fence can be installed as
a physical barrier or easily and efficiently electrified to
also serve as a psychological barrier as well. And because you 'll need far fewer line
posts than barbed and woven wire systems, the cost per foot is substantially less. When you select the Zareba system for your
containment needs, over 60 years of experience and know-how are built right in. Zareba systems is synonymous with high
quality american-made fencing, and includes a high level of customer
support and service after the sale. In this video, you'll learn how to install
a Zareba high tensile fence. In this segment, you'll learn how to layout
and design your fence using Zareba's revolutionary fence
planning application. We'll also cover the considerations for a traditional
paper-and-pencil approach Be sure to locate buried hazards and any
utility lines before you start digging post holes for your fence. Utility companies typically have a free
one call program that will respond within three business days. To use the Zareba fence planning
application, log on to www.zarebasystems.com.
There you can navigate to the fence planning application. If you'd rather layout and design your
fence using paper and pencil, we suggest you download the layout graph
template from www.zarebasystems.com. Then use the checklist on the template
to create your materials list. Here are some other specialty tools
you'll need to install your high tensile fence. Post drivers simplify the setting of posts. Hydraulic versions can be mounted on
tractor, skid loaders and trucks. Be sure to follow the operation manual
from the manufacturer. A spinning jenny allows for the easy
payout of wire along fence lines. They can be used by hand or mounted on a
vehicle for large wire payouts. You'll need a tensioner to tighten the high
tensile wire for layout. And the crimping tool will be needed to
compress the crimping sleeves used to join wire. As with any construction site safety is
a priority. Eye, hand and foot protection are required,
and when operating power augers or post drivers, be sure to use hearing protection. In this segment, you will learn about end,
corner, rise and dip posts. You will learn how to install these posts by
hand, or with the use of a hydraulic post
driver. You'll also learn the proper size and depth needed to make your
installation secure. Start with installation of all end,
corner, dip and rise posts which should be wooden
posts. End posts are used at gate openings or the end of your fence where buildings
or other obstacles provide an existing boundary. Corner posts are set at corners. Dip and rise posts are set where there
are major dips or rises in your terrain, requiring additional support for the
tension of the high tensile wire. End, corner, dip and rise posts will
support the guidewire used to align the remaining line posts, so they must be installed first. You can
either handset posts or use a hydraulic post driver.
Installation will vary slightly depending on the method you choose. Driven posts require a tractor or truck
mounted hydraulic post driver. We recommend this method if possible as
it provides nearly ten times the pullout resistance of a handset post. You may choose to hire a local fence
installer to set your posts, or rent the driver yourself. Proper
operation and safety precautions should be mastered before using this
potentially dangerous equipment. Pre-drilling a small pilot hole in the
ground with a 4-inch rock auger, can ease Post driving in hard, rocky soil
conditions. Driven posts always go into the ground
small end first, for the least amount of soil disruption
and greater holding power. Offset posts from plumb about two to
three inches. Offset away from the direction the wire
will pull. This prevents the posts from pulling over center when tension is
applied to the wires. You may also handset corner and end posts
but must take extra steps to prevent pullout. When hand
setting posts, the large end goes in the ground first for
greater stability. First dig an inverse bell-shape at the
base of the whole, making sure it is at least 42 inches
deep. Place the post in the whole and tightly tamp about eight-inches of dry concrete mix around the bottom. Overtime the soils moisture will cause
the concrete mix to setup and securely anchor posts. You can add
water to speed up the process. End and corner posts are at least eight
feet long and generally six inches in diameter. They should be buried at least 42 inches
deep and set with a 2- to 3-inch preloaded lean. These will go at each fence corner and
major dips or rises in the terrain. In this segment, you will learn the
specifications of typical high tensile wire and why to use a spinning jenny. You'll learn how to
string your guide wire, and how to temporarily tension guidewire
to lay out your line posts. You'll also learn the specification of line posts and how deep to set them. Now it's time to string the
guide wire. High tensile wire is typically 12.5 gauge, two hundred thousand PSI or 250-pound wire with the class 3
galvanized coating for long life. One way to install wire is to use a
spinning jenny wire de-realer. String the wire around the outside of
all corner posts and tie off at the end posts. Then staple the wire to the dip and rise posts at the bottom
wire position. Generally 4 to 8 inches above the ground,
depending on your wire spacing. Next, use chain grab wire puller at the
end post. Or temporarily install a strainer by using a
crimping sleeve to tension the wire until it is about four inches off the
ground or at the lowest wire position. Refer to Chapter eight in-lines strainers
and spring installation for proper techniques to tension wire using in-line
strainers. With guide wire now installed, you're
ready to start installing the line posts. Line posts should be at least eight feet
long and 4 inches in diameter if using wooden posts. T-posts can also be used and should be
driven into the ground at least 24 to 30 inches. Using the guide wire, mark posts locations
with paint or flags. As a rule of thumb, line posts are spaced
about 30 feet apart, but that depends on many factors;
including the number of wires in the fence, the terrain, hills and dips, as well as
type a number of animals being controlled. Increasing the distance between the
posts reduces the cost of the fence. In uneven terrain, line post should be
set at right angles to the ground, not vertically or plumb as in decorative
fencing. Line posts should be driven at least 30 inches into the ground. In this segment, you'll learn how and when
to build bracing at end and corner post locations. You're now ready to build bracing at the
end and corner posts locations. As a rule, any fence with six or more
wires requires double bracing. Set the vertical brace post 42 inches
deep. A single brace assembly works for fences
of five wires or less. The horizontal brace post length affects
the strength and holding ability of the entire brace assembly. Horizontal braces should be eight feet
long .Using a tape measure or the horizontal brace as a guide, mark where you will drive the vertical
brace post eight feet from the end post. With all vertical brace posts in place,
the next step is to measure, and drill the holes for the brace pins
that will hold the horizontal braces in place. These braces are best placed between the
top two fence wires. Brace pins are 3/8th inch diameter
galvanized steel pins in both 5-inch and 10-inch lengths. To install, use a 3/8th
inch diameter by 10 inch long drill bit. Drill into the end post approximately
2.5 inches. At the vertical brace post, drill
completely through the post. Next, pound the brace pin into the center of
the horizontal brace post. Slide the horizontal brace post with the
5-inch brace pin into the hole on the end post. If necessary, trim it to fit snugly
between the end and second vertical post. Pound the 10-inch brace pin through the
second brace post and into the horizontal brace. Leave about two inches expose on the far
end for anchoring the brace wire. Or if you're building a double brace,
leave the exposed pin to hang the second horizontal brace. Now that all posts are in position, it's
time to install the brace wire that holds the brace together. First drive the staple horizontally about
four inches up from the ground on the outside of the end post. Next,
lace the vertical brace post with high tensile wire, in a double figure 8 pattern. Position
the wire under the staple on the end post and on top of the exposed brace pin. Pull out as much slack as possible. Next, install an in-line strainer in the
upper half for the wire wrap. Use at least two crimping sleeves to
attach the strainer. As you tension the wire, you'll notice
the other strands pull around the posts so there is even pressure around all
strands. For safety, trim wire close to crimping sleeves. In
this segment, you will learn how to attach and Space the wire. You will learn about options for strength
of high tensile wire. And where to find spacing
recommendations for the animals you wish to control. You'll learn how to pay out the wire and
attach it to the post. If you're electrifying your fence, this segment
will cover the types of insulators and the procedures for
installing them. You will also learn how to attach crimping sleeves. and how to make in lines splices. The next
component you will install is the fence wire. High tensile wire comes in two strength
ratings: 200,000 pounds per square inch or PSI or
170,000 PSI. We recommend 200,000 PSI wire for its
superior breaking strength and resistance to elongation, stretching
and sagging. The number of wires and their spacing
will vary depending on the animal you are containing. Refer to the spacing guide available at
www.zarebasystems.com Using a tape or premarked spacer for a guide,
mark your desired wire spacing on fence posts using a lumber crayon or marker. Now
you're ready to payout the fence wire using the spinning jenny. Generally place wire on the side of the
post that will have animal pressure. This means the post will resist the
animals' pressure at the connection rather than at the staple. Before stringing wire determine which
wires will be electrified. So, if needed, thin tube insulators can be
placed on the wire, as it is strung. To avoid wire tangling,
string one strand of wire around the enclosure and attach it to the posts before
stringing the next. The bottom wire is the guide wire .Next to
the guide wire are our next two wires which were
previously laid out and will be the first to be attached. Any
wire on your fence can easily be electrified, making the fence a
psychological barrier as well as a physical one. One electrified wire should be
positioned at the animal's nose height causing it to back up if it touches the
fence wire. You have several options to insulate the electrified wires at the
line posts to prevent voltage loss. Thin tube insulator, porcelain insulators and plastic insulators. The first option
is a thin tube insulator, which are the most commonly used
insulators for high tensile fences and can be used on wood posts. These four
inch hollow tubes have fins on the outer edge which hold
them in place on the post, while allowing the wire to move freely
through the tube. These tube insulators should be put on the wire
before both ends are attached. Simply place the insulators on the wire
as you pay it out. It is a good idea to put extra tube
insulators on the wire before the ends are connected in case you miss adding
any as you pay out the wire. Thin tube insulators attached to wood
posts with a staple. Be sure to use eight or nine gauge class
3 galvanized barbed type staples for longest product life. Drive staples leaving a quarter inch gap
allowing wire to move freely beneath it. Dip and rise posts require a special
stapling technique, so the wire doesn't pull the staple out
of the posts. Secure each wire strand at both end posts with
at least two 12.5 gauge crimping sleeves. For electrified wires, you'll need a
wrap-around insulator at the end posts. You can use 12.5 gauge insulated wire
as we are using here, or use the normal wire with an insulator
tube for jumping electrical connections between fence wires. If you forget to add additional crimping
sleeves, you can also use a wiretap as we are using here. Crimping sleeves are crimped onto the
wire using the specialized crimping tool. Crimping sleeves are made from high
grade aluminum with the carborundum grid inside to prevent the wire from
slipping through. This connection provides the same
strength as the wire itself. Position the sleeves directly next to
each other for maximum holding strength. As a rule of thumb, use 2 to 3 crimping
sleeves at friction points and for inline strainers, and 4 crimping sleeves for an inline
splice. To keep the wire in its correct position at the end posts until final tension is applied,
staple it in place. For insulated electrified wire, place a
staple above and below the wrap-around insulator to hold it on its
predetermined mark. This keeps the staple from cutting
through the insulator and shorting out the fence. All of the the fence wire strands should
now be strong around the perimeter of your fence and attached to the posts. Be sure you
leave plenty of slack before cutting the wire. You will need as many as 12 to 18 inches of extra cable to install strainers. So once your wire is attached at both
ends, your wire should be hanging loose. It's far better to have too much wire
than not enough. In this segment, you will learn where to
place strainers and how to install in-line strainers and tension indicator
springs. You'll learn how to apply tension to a wire and repeat the process for all of the wires
of your fence. You'll learn the proper technique for
safely tensioning wire. How to accurately measure wire tension
and the proper use of multi groove poly spacers to prevent fence wire
separation. You are now ready to install in-lines strainers, and tension indicator springs, unless you
are using self regulating strainers and then apply tension to the wire. Generally, you need one in-line strainer
for every four thousand feet of wire. Locate strainers in the middle of each
fence span where the poll in both directions will
be equal. A fence span is the area between corner or end posts. Every friction point, corner, dip and rise
reduces the strainers tension capacity by five hundred feet. After you have determined the in-line
strainer location, cut the fence wire at that point. Place three 12 .5 inch gauge crimping sleeves
on the wire and preform the wire. Place the wire through the hole in the
in-line strainer strap. Bend the wire back onto itself, allowing
the crimping sleeves to slip into place. Crimp the three sleeves to permanently
attach the strainer to the wire. Place the other end of the wire through
the hole in the strainer reel. Tension the wire with a strainer handle. The compression clip on the in-line
strainer, eliminates the need to put your fingers near the bail when applying tension which can be very
dangerous. On the second wire from the top, install a strainer and tension indicator
spring to measure wire tension on the fence. If you are not using self regulating in-line strainers, the spring features full strength tug links with marks to
accurately measure wire tension. To install, pull out one tug link and
thread it through the hole in the in-line strainer strap. Next, reinstall the tug link back into the spring coil and attach to
fence wire using two crimping sleeves. Now tension the wire. As you pull the wire using the strainer
handle, the tension indicator spring will compress. The first notch indicates 150 pounds
of tension. When the second notch appears, you've
reached the final desired tension of 250 pounds. Now apply the same tension to all other
fence wires. You'll be able to see and feel when all
the wire is properly tensioned based upon the first wire installed with the
spring or self-regulating strainer. So you will not need a tension spring on
the other strands of fence. The next step is to install the multi
groove poly spacers that prevent fence wire separation. Place poly spacers about 10 feet apart
between fence line posts. Spacers help maintain wire spacing,
allowing line posts to be placed further apart. Use a class 3 galvanized wire clip to
attach spacers directly to the fence wire. A wire twisting tool simplifies the clip
installation. In this segment, you'll learn about the
options available for energizing your high tensile fence. And you'll
learn what to consider when selecting the appropriate energizer and how to connect your energizer to the fence. There are many options available for
energizing your high tensile fence. If you haven't selected an energizer, we
recommend using Zareba systems revolutionary fence planning application found on www.zarebasystems.com. This
application will analyze the information you enter and recommend a specific fence
controller. Otherwise you'll need to select a power
source. Choose AC for plugging into an existing electrical connection, DC for battery power or a solar powered
unit. Consider the power output represented in
jewel, in relation to the type of animal being
controlled. You'll need to factor in the length of the fence and the amount of vegetation that will
contact the fence. Weeds, trees and grasses can rob power
from your system by grounding the connection. You'll find all the information you need
to select the proper energizer at www.zarebasystems.com or at your
local Zareba dealer. If you are electrifying the fence, make
jumper connections between all electrified fence wires. Slide a section of insulated plastic tube
or insult tube over the wire to prevent it
from touching the non electric wires. Crimp to attach to the two hot wires
using extra crimping sleeves placed on the wire prior to tensioning. Fence wire taps may also be used if
crimp sleeves were left off. Repeat until all electrified wires are
connected. Next, install and connect your electric
fence energizer to the fence, following the specific energizers
operation and installation manual. Use a low impedance energizer with
adequate jewels to keep animals safely contained. 20,000 volt or greater hook-up wire
should be used to connect the fence terminal on the energizer to the fence
wire. 20,000 volt or higher hook-up wire
should also be used from the ground terminal to the ground rod. For maximum fence performance, drive three 6-8
foot galvanized ground rods into the ground. Space them about 10 feet apart and
within 20 feet of the Energizer. Connect them using twenty thousand volt
hook-up wire and heavy-duty ground rod clamps. In this segment, you will learn where to
place gates and openings, and how to continue the electrical
circuit without impeding the opening by burying insulated wire. There are a
variety of gates available at farm supply stores. Build or buy sturdy gate materials
especially hardware items such as hinges and closures. Stock gaps or cattle guards are also
useful for high traffic areas when laying out your Feb

10 Replies to “How to Install a High Tensile Electric Fence System by Zareba® (Complete Guide)”

  1. I was in the electric sign business for 25 years and worked with neon which runs off of transformers that put out up to 7500 volts. We tried the whole plastic tubing thing and it would fail eventually due to moisture getting in the tubing. Water conducts electricity. The hard plastic components were better, until the sun finally got to them. Porcelain and pyrex were the only things that worked with the exception of air space.

  2. this is the kind of fence I been wanting to re-do all my blocks, but it is not found here in north western Ont. Canada at any farm supply, or any of my own wholesale suppliers of hard ware tubing, chain all I can get is the same stuff the co-ops have and that's ether 1/4 or 1/2 mile 14 ga electric wire witch will not take any tension, and very costly insulators, my customers ask me all the time too, I don't like the 10×12 roll fence as anamals get there heads stuck, and a 350 x4; high roll of 4×4 is 500.00 cnd, far to much when you have miles to do

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