How to install vinyl fencing – layout and post installation

How to install vinyl fencing – layout and post installation



this video is designed to give the basics for getting your fence started and installing the posts before you begin identify any obstructions that you may encounter to avoid injury and damages make sure you have your utility lines as well as any underground irrigation systems marked so you're digging does not come into contact with them be sure to follow all local building codes and obtain a permit where necessary gather the tools you will need so they are easily accessible as you proceed be sure to include safety equipment such as goggles and gloves install the line stakes and run a string line attaching it to the two stakes use a tape measure and mark the locations for each post check the CAD diagram for your fence model to determine the number of inches from center of post to center of post after marking the post positions begin to dig the post holes the 5 inch posts will need a 12 inch diameter hole and the 4 inch posts will need a 10 inch diameter hole we recommend the depth of the holes to be 30 to 36 inches but check your local codes and take into consideration the frost line for your area we recommend setting all posts with wet pre-mixed concrete use 280 pound bags of quikrete for each 5 inch post and 260 pound bags for each 4-inch post once you have determined the exact location of the post and you know that it is level and plumb fill the remainder of the hole with concrete to four inches below ground level be sure to work the concrete into the concrete hole on the post a tamping bar spud bar will help you to work out air pockets and push cement into the cement hole we strongly recommend that you install one post and one panel at a time setting multiple posts in concrete in advance could be a problem if you do not install your panels to the exact CAD diagram measurement if you are filling the inside of your posts with concrete you must tape the rail ends so the concrete does not seep into the rails and cause sagging we recommend a minimum of two inches of clearance between the bottom of the fence panel and the ground this will allow clearance for the gate to swing freely measure assemble and install your gates first the installed gate will set the height of the fence failure to do so may result in a poor installation and a possible shortage of space for the gate when gluing picket caps place a thin bead of glue inside the picket and press the picket cap onto the picket we do not recommend gluing the post caps onto the post in case you want to change the type of caps you have at a later date instead use a small amount of clear silicone caulk on the inside corner of the post cap this will properly secure the cap without permanently gluing it you

20 Replies to “How to install vinyl fencing – layout and post installation”

  1. I didn't even mix my concrete I put it in the ground dry and let nature harden it. I did this about 10 years ago and my fence is still standing strong.

  2. Do not do what these FLY BY NIGHT professionals do. Just dig a whole a cement the vinyl post sleeve in the ground. Lol wheres the post the collars. Notching tol. Etc.

  3. I would pour the concrete first in the hole then put the pole in but do one at a time. The concrete will definitely be inside of Pole.

  4. And I recommend getting a post hole auger and forgetting about that piece of junk he’s trying to use.

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  9. Utility lines are marked with many colors, but not white. Make sure to use WHITE paint to mark for fence posts.

  10. My neighbor had one of your fences installed recently. The contractor did NOT follow your guidelines! Very few of the posts reach 3!0". The cement was dry poured so they could install the entire fence in 1-1/2 days (approx 160 LF of fence along 3 elevations!).. One of the 5" gate posts only reached a depth of 11".!!!!! Which happened to be mine as i wished to have the area between houses look the same. Only 11" down and a dry pour ? Are you kidding me? For a 4' x 6' gate? I'm a contractor and I plan on holding these people to the same standards I'm held to!

  11. Ryan, it's not necessary to use a sonotube for this application. The entire footing will be above the frost line in most climates where heaving is a problem so having a smooth column won't really make a difference.

  12. One thing they are doing wrong, is you never poor concrete into a hole without the use of a sonotube. Because if you just pour concrete into a hole, all that ruff surface area on the concrete allows the earth to move the pour. Therefor in time your pour will lift out of the earth due to freezing.

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