Jointer Push Grips with an Automatic End Catch!

Jointer Push Grips with an Automatic End Catch!


Hey Everybody I’m Tommy, and today I’m
going to show you how I made these jointer push grips, where one of them has these little
pegs that drop down and help you finish pushing your board through the jointer. Whether it’s your first time here, or even
if you’ve been here before, Welcome to One Minute Workbench. So, the push grips that came with my jointer
are pretty good. However, I find that sometimes when I’m
face-jointing a board, they start to slip. Especially when it comes to the end of the
cut. So, I often just use my hands because I can
get a better grip with my hands. And a viewer sent me an email suggesting that
I find a safer alternative, and that’s what lead me to this design with these little pegs. I started by cutting out rectangles that will
make up the main shapes of the push grips. I used 1/2” plywood, but you could use a
variety of different materials for a project like this. So with my stacks of rectangles, you can already
see the basic shape the grips will have. These pieces I’m laminating are going to
be the handles. I’m doubling them up so the handles will
be a little thicker and more comfortable to hold. After those had a chance to dry, I started
making all the marks I would need. I made marks for a series of holes that would
allow the drop down pegs to work. And then I drew out the shape of the handles. An adjustable square works great for drawing
lines at a consistent dimension like this. And anything that’s perfectly round, like
this brass marking gauge, can be used to trace rounded shapes in the corners. I drilled a couple of counterbores about two-thirds
of the way through one of the main plates, and matching counterbores in a piece that
will work as the cover for the pegs. I then drilled one more piece with the same
size holes, except this time they went all the way through. I drilled holes that are just larger than
the pegs the rest of the way through the main plate. These two small pieces are what’s actually
going to hold the pegs in place. I used a bandsaw to cut out the shapes for
the handles, but if you don’t have a bandsaw, you could make these same cuts with a jigsaw
or a coping saw. You’ll just need to go slow and be careful
to follow your line. Using a disc sander, I very carefully rounded
the small pieces that will hold the pegs in place. I also rounded all the sharp corners and smoothed
out the bandsaw cuts. To ensure the pegs would operate smoothly,
I used a round file to remove any burrs from the inside edges of the holes that contain
the pegs. I did a dry assembly of the components and
marked the pegs so they could be cut down to the appropriate length. They were looking good, so I added some glue. While those were drying, I rounded over the
edges of the handles using my DIY vise-mounted router table. Before building this router table, I would
usually round over edges using an orbital sander and a file, and now I’m wondering
why I ever waited so long to build this thing. If you haven’t seen the video for this router
table, be sure to check it out. The pegs were actually still just a bit too
long, so I used the sander to take off the extra length. And with the speed of the sander turned way
down, I very carefully smoothed out the shape and rounded the sharp edges. With all of the internal holes free of burrs
and the pegs being perfectly smooth, the drop-down action of the pegs was on point. I added some glue and made sure the holes
were perfectly aligned inside. When adding the cover over the pegs, since
I couldn’t see inside, I just did my best to make sure they were aligned in a way that
wouldn’t interfere with the movement of the pegs. I also wiped the glue back from the inside
edges of the holes in an effort to keep squeeze-out from making its way inside. After the assembly had some time to dry, I
finished adding the outside contours with the disc sander. I rounded the inside edges using a flat file. And finally, I rounded the top edges using
the router table. I used my marking gauge to center the handle,
and then I drew some alignment lines. To attach the handles, I thought about using
screws, but eventually decided to use dowels. This is just in case these grips ever come
in contact with the jointer’s knives. If that happens, I wanted to make sure it
wouldn’t be a catastrophe. I then repeated the process for the other
push grip. Once they were dry, I gave everything a good
sanding just to help prep for finishing. I used a scrap bicycle inner tube to create
the grippy bottom surface. Then inside of these inner tubes are coated
with powder, so I washed them very thoroughly. After washing, I checked to see which surface
provided more grip. The outside surface is very grippy, while
the inside surface doesn’t actually provide much grip at all. That said, I decided to use the outside surface
for making contact with boards that are being jointed, and I used 60 grit sandpaper to rough
up the smooth inside surface, so it could be glued to the push grips. I mixed up some 2-part epoxy, and used it
to attach the rubber to the push grips, but I’m actually going to recommend that you
use regular old super glue, and you’ll see why a little bit later on in this video. I did the same thing for the grip that has
the pegs, except I used masking tape to block the pegs so epoxy couldn’t get inside. After the epoxy cured, I removed all the clamps
and trimmed away the excess rubber using a razor-knife. I
used a hole punch to make a hole in the rubber, just over each of the pegs. I then applied six coats of satin water-based
polyurethane, and sanded in between each coat. I gave the push grips their first test on
a board that was probably a bit too long for my jointer, and these grips worked beautifully. They felt way more substantial than my other
grips, and I was able to control this oversized board with ease. I did notice however after just a few test
cuts that some of the rubber was coming loose at the corners. That’s when I decided it was time to do
a test with a few different types of adhesives and see if I could get a better result. I did a test with some hot-melt and some super
glue. Now, I didn’t prep the surface with sandpaper
this time, and I only let them cure for a about 5 minutes. The piece attached with hot-melt glue came
loose very easily, but I did notice that the edge of that piece got into the super glue,
and it put up a good fight. And for the piece that I attached with super
glue, the face came loose easily, but the edges were very well attached. I actually opened up the camera view here
so you could see how much force I had to apply in order to get the edges to break free. So I did another test where I did use sandpaper
on the face of the rubber, and I let the super glue cure for about an hour. The piece was so hard to break free that I
eventually just gave up. After that, I went back and reinforced all
the corners with super glue, and since then, they’ve showed no signs of budging at all. If I were to do this project again, I would
skip the epoxy altogether, and go straight to the super glue. I’m really happy I made these push grips. As I mentioned before, they feel very substantial,
and they just give me such better control when jointing a board, and they’re a huge step
up from the cheap plastic ones that came with the jointer. Hey thanks for watching. I really hope you liked this video. If you haven’t already, be sure to LIKE
and subscribe, and make sure you hit the bell icon, that way you get notified every time
there’s a new episode. I’d love to hear what you think of these
push grips in the comment section below, and if you have any quick questions you want answered,
hit me up on Instagram, Facebook, or Twitter. And until the next time I see you, I hope
you have fun building something!

88 Replies to “Jointer Push Grips with an Automatic End Catch!”

  1. i love how you show the difference between the epoxy and the super glue. I have learned a lot from this video again

  2. You were right to use dowels instead of screws but all the finish nails you used will ruin a knife just the same. Patience with the glue and clamps would eliminate the possibility. Nice design though. I like the "auto-drop" feature of the pins.

  3. I think these will be better for my purposes than even the Gripper. I quickly looked at your website and didn't see the plans for them. I'm an imitator, not an innovator, so I'll gladly pay for the plans if you post them. Thanks.

  4. Nice project! Now I gotta go make them, I guess….. 🙂

    A tip on rounding the peg retainers: Chuck the pegs into your hand drill. Now you can run the drill and hold them against stationary sandpaper if you want, and still get a consistent rounding.

  5. BEST PUSH STICK DESIGN I HAVE SEEN THEY WILL WORK WELL ON MOST POWER TOOLS
    BELT/ DISK SANDER. TABLE SAW, BAND SAW, ECT

  6. Nice looking push grips Tommy! i would have never thought the super glue would be that strong 🙂 Thanks for sharing the video.👍😎JP

  7. I seem to allways find getting excited whenever one of your videos comes out, you are just allways so thorough with your filming amd explianations and i can speak for the whole you tube community when i say that there needs to be more people like you. Allways nice to see what you come up with and how you solve your problems, cheers mate!

  8. Nice video and great idea. How about contact cement? Shouldn't this work the best since it's the same adhesive as fixing a flat bike tire?

  9. I am sorry Thumbs Up ! But you must add 20 Centimeters to the Height ! Too close to my taste to the blade (better than alternative though AND YOU ARE ORIGINAL ) I sow what happened to the guy (who is very good) that tried to "force" a Kick back so we can see live what is happening. He is a good guy ! He was 10 -15 centimeters from the blade and he almost got cut real bad, everyone were surprised to the magnitude of instantaneous dangerous event. THE TRUTH IS "unexpected results" WHEN KICKING BACK. Anything can happen. Just an Idea , sticksome magnets in so they reject one another and those 2 pins are "rejected" down.

  10. As a teen bmx racer on a budget…. I used super glue and thick electrical tape on the small punctures in my innertubes.

    It was a lot quicker to patch as well then the rubber cement.

    Thanks for sharing your talents!
    😇😎😀

  11. You used dowels to attach the handles to avoid a catastrophe. What about those brads you used to pin them first? Other than that, these look like a great idea.

  12. Nice! really clever design! I was gonna suggest using contact cement or rubber cement might be better for adhering the rubber to the wood, but apparently CA glue/ super glue is definitely the way to go.

  13. I’m so curious about how you knew where to punch holes in the rubber to access the drop down dowels. Thanks for a clear, simple build that will be quite useful.

  14. Totally making a set of these. I was looking to buy some but I'd rather build my own tools. These are a great idea as I was trying to come up with a good way to have the catches drop like yours.

  15. Very nice! I’m thinking a couple of small, lightweight springs might be a good addition and also thought that some of that rubbery shelf liner might make for a good grip base. A spray contact adhesive should work well with that stuff I would think. Clever design, thanks!

  16. Great idea with the pegs. I only have one suggested improvement. Instead of using inner tube rubber, use an old mouse pad. I made a couple using this and they grip like crazy. Someone posted it on YouTube, not my idea.

  17. Another great video and another project to add to my build list. I have an old plastic pr that came with my 4" Craftsman jointer from 20 years back and since I got a 6" last yr=ear at an auction it is now time to upgrade the push grips too. Thanks.

    I'm about to start on my version of your jointer plainer stand.

  18. I don't really use a jointer much but I think I want to make one of these for the table saw. I like using these these rubber padded handles for a lot of cuts. I get into that situation pretty often where you're cutting a fairly big board by yourself and you get to the end of the cut and your arms are reaching across and you want to be able to get better grip over the back end of the board so you can push down and forward at the same time. I think this would work great for that.

  19. Good job, have you thought of screwing the top plate over the pegs. That way if you should happen to saw you peg you can replace it.

  20. I really enjoyed this video in my opinion you would be good as a teacher. The way you explain things makes it easy for people to understand and learn how to do.

  21. Great video, fantastic concept, I was suprised you used a nail gun and then dowels to hold the handles, as you said about if you cut through the wood, did you remove the nails first ?

  22. Did you ever think of using contact adhesive instead. I used contact adhesive on a sander pad I had put on an antique sander and had no problem!

  23. Very nice improvement! I would recommend contact glue to stick rubber to objects. That’s what shoemakers use and it’s the best thing to use with flexible materials such as rubber 😉

  24. Brilliant idea and so simple. What are your thoughts of just a shallow block that doesn’t retract like on a table saw push stick? Easily replaceable if struck by the jointer knives.

  25. I gotta build some of these. I think I will try contact cement to glue the rubber onto the wood. I really like the dowels on the end of one of them for pushing the end of the board. Nice design.

  26. Love the design, I gotta make some for my jointer. Just a thought about the rubber grip, not sure how good it would be, but I might try the anti-skid mesh rubber that you use under floor mats that prevents them from sliding around. I would maybe even try spray adhesive, just not sure the reaction that would have on the rubber mesh. I'll let you know how it works out. Thanks again, awesome idea !

  27. Clever design and quality build! I might not build the same thing but will certainly use some of the ideas. Thanks!

  28. Cool project. I’ll definitely be making a set for myself soon.
    I think for the bottom I’ll be using a non skid shelf liner and contact cement gel. I put that on the bottom of my bench hook. And good luck getting that off.
    I think pvc-e glue would work good too. It has more of a rubbery texture when it’s dries. So it’s great for things that need to flex a little. But I think the non skid shelf liner would be way better for the bottom part.

  29. It’s about time smart young craft persons start to revolutionize woodworking! You are are so skilled and innovative ! Thank you for sharing your ideas.

  30. Tommy I am 55 years old and only recently had the confidence to use a tablesaw and you are are so proficient and comfortable around your machines. Keep up the great work which is such an inspiration!

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