Let's Make – Cheap & Easy Wooden Field Fences Scatter Terrain

Let's Make – Cheap & Easy Wooden Field Fences Scatter Terrain

49 Replies to “Let's Make – Cheap & Easy Wooden Field Fences Scatter Terrain”

  1. I appreciate that this is one of your older tutorial clips Mel and that you've probably updated some of your techniques in later clips. I experienced the same frustrating moments when first attempting to build wooden fences, especially for 10 and 15mm scale terrain. A solution I found was to roll out two thin sausages of bluetak, other sticky products are available! Then place my fence posts onto the tak, thus keeping it in place whilst gluing. Conversely, for wooden palisade, hold the rails down whilst gluing the upright pieces into place.
    Excellent tutorials, as ever.
    Best Regards Mel,
    Brian.😉

  2. Is the step-over board a real thing there, or is it something you imagineered? I've never seen anything like that in the NE or SW of the US (the two areas I've lived in) or in any media I've watched. It's a very cool touch, and seems like a great way to keep people from climbing your fence and breaking it

  3. Quick tip: to make the glue-up easier, stick the fence post to a strip of masking tape. it keeps them from rolling over and messing up your brand new cutting mat 😉

  4. Great video! Have you also made a tutorial for snake rail fences? I've a project ongoing for French Indian war terrain. Thanks.

  5. How would I show a walking path worn and matted down. Maybe from grass to a light dirt. Everybody walks along the fence line.

  6. Strong nostalgia of working my grandfathers old farm from these! Painting and flocking his fences took much longer though

  7. Very interesting video, loved it. Thank you. Only just found your videos, brilliant, from South Africa
    Please tell me what scale you work in

  8. Hey man. Great tutorial! However as I watch all your videos I can’t help but think that all your terrain looks better before you flock it, love the muddy ground before flocking, makes it look really realistic and natural in a ww2 setting

  9. I find that old dry wood that was out in the weather is more gray than brown. I usually do gray base coat, Dark brown wash, dry brush Tan, highlight cream

  10. Holy Craft!!!!!! these look amazing and i need to make a bunch of these for playing Legends of the Old west miniatures game
    Thanks for this tutorial

  11. Yeah, I am constantly repairing my 3 rail fences. I use furniture stain on my balsa for them. It makes for a real natural look. Thanks for the ideas on distressing the wood though. Question, if you are going to fully flock your bases, why put balast underneath?

  12. Отличный забор получился. Удачи в творчестве. Можете посмотреть мой канал. Там есть описания армий для 72 масштаба. Может кому будит интересно.
    A great fence. Good luck in creativity. Can watch my channel. There are descriptions of armies for 72 scale. Can someone Wake interested.

  13. like the video . this give you the base to do different stile of wood fence and also use small stripes of foam board to replicate wood

  14. Curious. When it comes to gluing the planks to the posts…. Wouldn't it have been easier to mark their locations for spacing then put the glue on the planks and add the posts? Gluing the small fiddly bits to the larger heavier piece. Then glue the second plank to the now fixed posts?

  15. Awesome tutorial! I'm a woodworker, just got into making terrain with scraps. I have tons of hardwood dowels, i find using a serrated steak knife does wonders for etching grain in tougher wood.

  16. Great vid Mel.
    A couple of questions from a beginner sorry.
    1. Why do you always put on grit before laying grass? Is it necessary if the grit can't be seen?
    2. When you finish the job and seal it, do you use a spray bottle?

    Many thanks!

    Great work.

  17. wouldn't it have been easier to put the glue on the fencing rather then the posts? flat vs round sort of thing? dont know if im sounding dumb or not but it works much better for me so i thought i'd mention it.

  18. Thanks again for another great video, mate. Now I can scale what you've done down a bit for use on HO scale railroad. Keep 'em comin'.

  19. Why do you grit the base then cover it entirely with flock? Is there some benefit to it? I can see if it were only partly flocked then the undercoat grit would be there. I just don't understand the purpose of the grit in this case. Can you enlighten me please?

    Cheers,

  20. Hey Mel, used the tutorial to create ten rustic fences for Bolt Action in less than 30 minutes. Staggeringly simple and will look ace with a bit of paint and foliage. Kudos!

  21. As always, nicely done, mate.
    Wirebrushing the stirrers shouldn't be a problem, depends a little on quality. Some cheap woods tend to split when you go a bit too heavy on them. Should also be possible to wash them, maybe after sanding them first if you don't wirebrush, just to make sure it soaks up the liquid quickly. You can also do your own woodstain pretty easily, so that is an option, too. There's thousands of tutorials out there for making some.Feels good to work with your own product.
    I was wondering a bit about the direction of your drybrushing, but then, I try to avoid drybrushing anyway. Your paint job on the industrial fence seems to work as well, so that's alright. I just would have done it differently, using a very fine tip and then work out a woodgrain with glazes along the board, not across as you do with drybrushing. Sounds complicated maybe, but it's done so randomly, that it really isn't that hard.
    You can make a nice rotten wood effect with this technique either. Just wirebrush the wood excessively, then use a dark green as your basecolor. Thin out an off white and an almost black, then use the fine tip along the board to create the typical appearence of rotten wood. You can add little moss or lichen if you want and I like to work over the painted surface with some dry pigment as well to make it more realistic. Typically I'd start with a hint of brown to give back a tiny bit of that wood and then I'd use white or off white powder to bleach it out as much as I think is needed. Finally you can go over it with a very dark tone to put in the few shades needed.

  22. Hi Mel, Thanks for this tutorial, great as always. One question though, In most of your tutorials you use grit to dress the bases. What is this made up of / where do you get it? Cheers in advance, Chris

  23. How do you find that superglue? I always figured it'd cure in the bottle and be a waste, so I've tended to only buy disposable tubes in multipacks. If that stuff lasts though, I might have to get some.

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