Scope Mounting for Long Range, SWFA 10×42 HD

Scope Mounting for Long Range, SWFA 10×42 HD

welcome back everybody I'm Kurt from Vaughn precision and we're doing a kind of a little three part series here on some scope testing we're going to be testing the SWF a it's the 10 by 42 fixed power in the HD now I can tell you already I just took this out and we've been looking through it and stuff and there is surprisingly there's a big difference but in order to really put this to the test and check the tracking and all that we have to mount it so I thought okay well what better time to show you guys how to mount this stuff up so a couple things we need we don't really need this but we're going to be using the the wheeler scope mounting levels we're going to be installing the SWF a bubble level and we're also going to need some tools in this case here I need a tee 15 all the stuff here's happens to be a tee 15 you know depending on what you guys have it could be a la Renta's or whatever so I also recommend getting a quality tool now it doesn't have to be a Matco but I've been a mechanic my whole life so you know buy quality tools I hate using the stuff that winds up snapping off and breaking or you can strip stuff out because the metal is not up to quality so if you can afford it spend the money and get a quality tool now the other thing I probably won't put this in the video just because it's just pouring down rain right now and it is going to be for a while so I'm not going to go out and lay in the grass and do this but what I do once we get this scope mounted and leveled with the with the wheeler leveling system I'm going to take this out and I'm going to hang this up it's just a fishing weight with a string and I will hang this outside off of an overhang I have on my house and I'll get back about 20 yards and I will put my crosshairs on the string now if my crosshairs are a little bit off well now I can loosen the scope up and just to make that slight adjustment I trust the the plumb-bob method over over anything else I'm not saying that wheeler makes a bad product because they don't and I've had great luck with it but just just check it with this it's it's a string and a weight it's worth its weight literally anyways so we're going to move over to a different bench here and start getting some of this stuff set up show you how we do this okay one of the first things we want to do is get your gun set set up a device now I'm using that the Tipton's vise here if you you can use several different vices it doesn't really matter as long as you can lock it in place now we have to find a level part on the gun to try to get the gun level the best place to do this is on a rail and so what we're going to do is we're gonna set this level right here then I'm going to come over and I'm gonna look down on this level and I can tweak the gun back and forth I can move my adjustment knobs here just a little bit and that level is perfect right there here's a close-up of that just want to make sure you can get that just as close as you can possibly get that to perfect now the next step is is adding the other level to the barrel or clamp that on right in here so let's take let's get that done so what we'll do is we'll take this level now these two bottom pieces these two bottom screws here are just to mount it to the barrel so the barrel comes right through here and this just clamps down on it this one here if you don't get it perfect when you mount it this knob adjusts that level up or down a little bit so you can you can adjust this so that this this level here matches the level that you have over here so we're just going to slide this up on here and we're going to just kind of move that around get it pretty close doesn't that be perfect lock that down doesn't that be super tight but snug and then we're going to move this level a little bit here by adjusting this knob we get let me get this Suman in here for you so you can see okay so what we're going to do is we're just going to adjust this knob okay go on the wrong way so go back the other way put that bubble right in between those two lines right about there maybe just a hair more okay right about there now moving this around a little bit I did come off this back one here off to one side so I'm just going to tweak this a little bit perfect come back over here and check this one right there okay so I'll get them both leveled up now so now as long as I don't move this front one here I can take this back one off and I'm going to take my scope rings off just the upper parts now normally I would lap these rings in but because this particular scope is just a scope or testing on this gun we're going to mount this scope actually to several different rifles and really put it through the test put it on some big caliber stuff – I'm not I'm not going to lap these in so set that in here now back to your small level put that right on the top and you're going to move this scope around until that level is perfect double-checking the front level to make sure that level is perfect also so now what we can do is just set our scope rings back on here now this is the tricky part it's not really tricky but I'm just going to run these down just spinning it with my finger one thing I want to be real careful of is to make sure that the gap I don't have a gap on one side of my ring larger than the other I want to I want to bring these down even so they've got to keep an eye out for that I'm also not going to install Loctite on these because again this is not this is not going to be a permanent fixture on this particular rifle here now on this front ring I have a gap on this side quite large and the other side is not it's not quite as big so what I do is I just loosen this one up a half turn quarter turn or so and then just come down on this side and snug those up just a little bit not really tightening I'm just running them down to where they make contact and what that does is just sort of adjust that that that top ring this way or that way now let's get a close-up on this you can see how this works alright so my level is off just a little bit so what I'm going to do is just just tweak this scope around a little bit and just a little just a barely a tap with something real soft isn't going to hurt anything at all as long as you don't have these tight you cannot tighten these down meanwhile keeping an eye on that front level because I don't want to make I don't I want to make sure nothing changes up there just like that okay here's the key just a very small snug there and a very small snug here but we're going crosswise we're not we're not going side to side okay and just really take your time and just go from side across to the other side kind of kitty-corner keep an eye on both those levels right from this one here in the front one and another one here just take your time with this if you do it this way you won't you won't wind up getting the scope cockeyed it'll it'll stay true the whole way down one thing I should mention is I already know because we've had one of these scopes mounted on this before I already know the eye relief is going to be good one thing I should I should say is when you're going to mount a scope before you start snugging these down you're want to lay down behind this gun and and move the scope backward or forward to get that eye relief right where you want it okay so at this point we are ready to to start putting some torque on this and I don't like to put a lot of torque on these what I like to do here is grab an allen key or not Allen but a Torx wrench and I'll put those on there what I do with my thumb and my finger and I just give it a little twist until I start feeling some decent resistance there and I stop come to the other side stop over here and stop these don't have to be very tight and now you can put you can put a torque wrench on here if you want that's fine but you don't need to you just get them snugged in there a lot of this for me is by field just because I've done this type of work for a long time if you're new to this I you know don't don't hesitate to use a torque wrench and and just follow the manufacturer specifications to what they recommend they're usually somewhere between fifteen and twenty five inch pounds depending on the manufacturer not foot-pounds inch pounds okay we finished Orkin those down so get a level in there and it's bright dead-center coming up back to the top one here and we are right dead center so now another thing I should mention too is any attachments you have bipod the slings bullet sleeve or anything like that get it off of there just get it out of your way so that you know you're not in here messing with this stuff so the scope is on and it's leveled up so now we've just got a few more things we want to want to do first let's get this on here while all the levels are still on we're going to mount this I'm going to put this right here so let's do that sometimes it's easier just to kind of kick this thing sideways here to get these to get the Torx screws started once you get them started you will flip it up and get it actually level again keep an eye on that gap to don't want a big gap on one side and pinch tight on the other I'm going to put this right up against the ring that's just personal preference you can put this thing you know up here back here wherever you want it personal preference okay I'm going to double check both front level this level here and I'm going to put this bubble right in the center just like the rest of them you can just tap it around as you need this can be a little bit tedious but and the same thing here you want to just tighten up you know snug one side snug the other kind of back and forth that'll keep that level cinching down nice and even now normally I would consider putting Loctite on this because once you have the scope level leveled with the internals of the scope you can mount this scope on any any gun and just use this level but I'm not sure the placement of this scope and the you know with the Rings and stuff on some of these other rifles so I'm not sure if I'm going to have to move it if I have to move it then you know I want to be able to get it apart real easy so okay so we're just going to Snug this up the same way all right so we've got this leveled this is still level the front ones still level we are we are good to go here other than just verifying everything with with the plumb bob and the string out back okay so we've got this all on here it's all leveled up we will double check it before we take it out to the range just with the plumb bob to make sure it's all good you know if you if you haven't selected your rings yet one thing you really want to pay attention to is the height of the Rings make sure you have clearance for your bolt this is it's fairly close but it's fine again I can get my finger in between there so we're going and other than that this is good to go so stay tuned and we're going to follow up with all the abuse we put this poor scope through we're going to mount obviously to this seven millimeter I believe a 30.6 and a R and we're going to do some tracking testing we're going to take it out do some coyote hunting we're going to take it hiking with us we're really going to put it to the test we're going to start looking across canyons at you know far away probably thousand sixteen yards just to see you know how does that stuff look through this glass versus the standard one so at the same time I received this one I also received the standard glass version in the in the 12 by 42 both of them are very nice i I'm a huge fan of swf a new fan actually but they're kind of like a kind of like a I don't know sort of hidden gem I guess I I'm kind of kind of shocked at the price for what you actually get so far I've never shot through one of the HD models but the I own several of the of the other ones and at this point I see really personally no reason to go with with any other scope and I've owned Leopold and vortex and you know Burris and I mean I've owned a ton of stuff and the scope honestly and I know I'm wearing the swf a hat WFA is not paying me okay they are a very good high quality product yes they're a lot cheaper but they are very very good in fact they you know they started out with a military contract that's how they that's how they started and we'll get through some of that stuff in one of the other two videos we're going to do so anyways but that's how you mount the scope if you have any questions drop them in the comments and I'll be happy to answer them for you so until next time stay tuned thanks for watching

10 Replies to “Scope Mounting for Long Range, SWFA 10×42 HD”

  1. So I monted my SWFA 3-15 scope and found my turret cap to be canted if I plumb bob my reticle with the rifle level. Now what?

  2. I'm from New Zealand, I'm getting one of these sent to me from SWFA – can't wait. Will follow your advice for mounting.

  3. I LOVE this scope. I have it mounted on a Savage M-11 in .308 with a Shilen varmit barrel. My most favorite gun for long range. SWFA SS is now my only scope brand

  4. I add a drop of blue loctite and tighten in a pattern similar to the classic "inside out spiral" of a cylinder head. As mentioned…you don't need to monkey them down…just snug them up and allow the loctite to keep anything from backing out.

  5. hi Vaughn what mounts are you using, I want too mount this either on my air rifle or bench rest .22
    I am impressed by what I've heard about swfa, what mag would you recommend, ie- 10, 12 ,16
    cheers andy

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