Shoeing a horse with Blue Pegasos polyurethane horseshoes part 2

Shoeing a horse with Blue Pegasos polyurethane horseshoes part 2



so I'm continuing on we're just going to put a shoe on a hind foot watch the process from front mine is really basically the same thing we'll just take through it anyway so again we don't want to invade any wide sole but I'm going to target the bars if it's a little bit ugly little bit overgrown or 1/2 this will begin for about 4 weeks so I'm just going to take care of keeping in mind that we're not going to invade them right so also just take it down to cell phone' and that's about as far as they go again remembering that when you're asking across the heels you want to make sure that your heels in line with the problem do not go any lower then the Frog if you take the deals lower than the Frog you'll just create excess pressure as the polyurethane shoes are made to sit pretty evenly across to the deal I've uncovered the live sole playing at the toe there but I'm not invading it just making sure that I know where it is mark complete my trip the gang I'm taking off the outer wall into the atom warm is unnecessary the use with the polyurethane shoes as the shoes load on to soul more than wall and thickness and the load is through the sole and the heels and all the other thanks shoes and not the outer wall this also eliminates any flaring issues that you generally get from blowing in the outer wall also scoop the corners a little bit on this full if you don't need a dead flat book to apply a polyurethane shoe shape to it if you scoop the quarters a little bit you also avoid that nasty water flaring sometimes during the board so back the toe up there as far as I think I need to on this force you can go to the white line if you need to polyurethane to because about the soul and not the ball but I've left inner wall on this horse like to leave as much inner walls I can while removing the outer wall that role terms are pretty good shape there it's pretty tidy it's a pretty good condition forward now when you get you hold forward it's again not much point in dressing the pie or we're doing this finishing off that role or we start Monday so we just tidy that up and remove any of the mechanical loading process that can occur on the outer wall that leads to flaring in long toes and such like that so we keep them nice and short obviously a high booster generally a lot easier to deal with in the front foot so there's not a whole bunch of that there and the game would get ready to prepare the shoe for those that are a bit nervous about applying your shoe or nailing it's when the self marker comes in to play so just mark the white lines and you can see that mark on the white line quite clearly through the shoe which means it would guide to mouth and shoot through now again I don't want the totally on the shoe I'm going to nip it off I want a faster break over and his hind foot and then that token will allow us I'm taking it off and I'm just going to use the side clips and the side puts rest against the bull there's no need to set them in I'll just rest against there nicely so nailing he five now again find your mark through the shoe couple attacks the white line and just start driving again the shoes do not come with any pre-drilled nail holes so if you would like to pre-drill the shoe you certainly can do so there's no harm in doing that adds a little bit of time in the job but if you notice about it then probably good idea to pre-drill them the shoes now find an e5 now you can see there go through the shoe no worries the shoes they're pretty similar density to so now in through is really quite simple again on this one I'm going to use six nails for the demonstration purposes you do not need to use six males if you don't wish you can use four or five any pattern you like generally the heaviness of your horse's action will dictate and when he knows you have to put in because some horses with a very heavy action put a lot of sheer force on the nails and you only have four sometimes they can twist around a bit so my tip would be to apply six nails to start and then see how you bots where's the shoe and the next time if they're liking the action and having twisted this you around very much you can do for now just use one out so once you've got your six nails in and you're all nice and even and where you want them in swandam out crunch so this is an important step again you need to use the nail punch to fantasy for nails below the rim of the shoe very important to take away a lot of the shear forces that are on the now and also helps you want there so just now punch them down below and again just want to give them a little bit of a heart punch clinseq what doesn't really work terribly well or buffer doesn't work very well either for the polyurethane shoes so I just use the clincher and give them a little craft punch so around the top again we're just going to nip off the excess nail and they've got three millimeters now coming out anymore is just waste and any less you won't get a decent clinch take I like to take my rasp and just put a little nick underneath each nail which just allows the nail to clinch that neater and easier you can use a gouge if you like but I find that the brass was fine then clinching again sort of double movement so your first movement you want to do bend the nail so it doesn't drive it back through and the second movement do you want to kid you say there's a little band when the clench a little bend and then the quick that just stops the now driving back down through the shoe when you're tiny up your clenches again do not take all your clinched off you want to leave quite a lot of cootchie out there because there's a lot more shear force from the flexible polyurethane on the nail so you need a lot of grab up there now I'm just sitting a little bit of break over and shoe they're just grinding grasping a little bit extra and we're back at the back here where it's important again to take off that little bit of extra sure that overhanging the hind ball so don't be lazy here it only takes a couple of seconds to trim off that little bit of polyurethane at the back just makes your job a lot neater and allows your boss to travel a lot better as well once you've nipped it off you can just give it a quick rasp or polyurethane rasps very easily very sharp brass just tighten it up a little bit you want to make sure that you've left about three millimeters in shoe all around the hoof as the polyurethane is really very flexible and you should flex on all plane so you want to make sure that you've got quite a bit of shoe left to poke with the flexibility of the polyurethane and the flexibility so once you tighten it up a little bit that's it job done you you

4 Replies to “Shoeing a horse with Blue Pegasos polyurethane horseshoes part 2”

  1. Good one ! You have successfully eliminated the function of the frog ! Way to go . Only idiots buy into this sort of crap .

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