The Woodpecker EP 44 Wooden Jointer

The Woodpecker EP 44 Wooden Jointer


Hi on The Woodpecker today I’m building a jointer I already have a six inch wide jointer. On narrow pieces it works pretty well. But on pieces wider than six inches, I have to remove the cutter guard to joint them. Then I have to hand plane the rest of the board. But since I saw Matthias Wandel’s twelve inch jointer on woodgears.ca, I dreamed of building one. I even bought a brand new thickness planer on sale, just for that. YES I bought it just for the parts. The first thing to do, is to dismantle it to get the motor and the cutting head. The motor and the roller gears are in one block, so I have to remove the gears from the motor. Here they are, apart from the motor. But I have a small problem. The motor back bearing is held by the gear’s casing and the whole thing is way too big to fit inside the jointer. So I cut a piece of plywood with the shape of the gears’ housing. After marking and drilling the holes, I screw both pieces to the motor. Now that I have the motor, I need the cutter head. I remove the pulley first, then the bearing’s spring clip. I take out both bearings. Then I can remove the cutter head. Now I’m all set with all the pieces I need to build my jointer. But my motor is different from the one Matthias used, so I must make a different type of support for it. I start by making a quarter inch wide groove on quarter inch thick plywood and rough cut it to size. I cut it in half and glue both pieces together. This will be the pivot base of my motor. I just have to make sure both pieces are well aligned so a quarter inch stainless steel rod fits inside both grooves, and I leave this to dry. The next morning I can cut the base to its final dimensions. Then I measure and drill the holes to screw the motor to the base. I don’t trust the original screws so I add two big hose clamps around the motor. I just need to drill a series of holes and clean in between them so the hose clamp can go through the slots. The last thing to do on the base is to install the T bolt which will act as the motor belt tensioner. which will act as the motor belt tensioner. Then I can assemble it all. Now you can see what the motor looks like on its base. Now I can start to work on the jointer’s frame. I decide to use baltic birch plywood for the whole frame. After cutting a four by eight sheet to a more manageable size, I glue two strips together for the front and back of the jointer. I clamp this and leave everything to dry. During this time, I can work on the cutter head support. After sticking two small pieces of plywood together with double sided tape, I stick the pattern on this sandwich and I drill the hole on the top one. For the second one, I use the pilot hole the previous one did to guide the cut. This looks so simple hein… But these are all the holes I made before finding the right size for the hole for both cutter head supports Then with the bandsaw table tilted, I cut the second part of the cutter head bearing support. Finally I can glue both pieces of both supports together. Now that the glue of both front and back is dry, I trim both of them to their final size. I also make all the other tricky cuts on them. The only belt I found was a little smaller than the one on the plans and my base is also different too, so I print a full scale version of the front and width length of sewing thread I find the new placement for the motor. I modify the plans, print it and mark the center for the motor. Again, using the wing cutter, I drill a big hole on the front of the jointer. At one point it was too deep for the cutter so I removed some wood and continued to cut. When the hole is done, using a small nail, I mark the corners of the motor pivot block and mark where to cut it. I also trace a new form for the motor’s hole. This cut MUST be straight, so I clamp the front on my table saw and with my thinnest blade, I cut the bottom of the motor pivot block by raising the saw blade. It’s not that bad. I’m satisfied with it. For the rest of the cuts, I try to use my jigsaw. And here you can see why I NEVER use this tool. I finish the cuts with a coping saw, chisels and a flush trim saw. chisels and a flush trim saw. The rest is done with the sander. The last thing I do for the motor mount, is to drill the pivot holes in the two pivot blocks. pivot holes in the two pivot blocks. Now that the glue of the bearing mounts is dry, I can shape them and drill their mounting holes. to try dis I must put the bearings
backup like other after putting together had in place I can check the belt and
confirm that make measurements where really are
hi change the form of the motor old and drill a second all in bold
mother people likes Then with a chisel I cut the power switch hole and cut a groove for the electrical wire. Then I cut, drill all the necessary holes, glue and screw both end caps of the jointer. Then I cut both bottom panels, glue and screw them in place Now I can firmly bolt both motor pivot blocks. When the motor is in place, I bend the belt with a bolt from under the jointer. Now that’s the sound of a nicely tight belt. I couldn’t stop myself. I wanted to try the cutter head. No vibration, so far it’s a success. Now I can start working on both jointer’s tables. I cut all the pieces a little bigger and cut the special shape on the band saw. To glue both layers of the table together. I pre-drill some holes under both tables. Then I chamfer all the inside holes so when I’ll screw them together the wood won’t push them apart. Next I spread glue on both layers and screw them together. The next morning I cut both tables to their final dimensions Then I make the pattern for the infeed table parallelogram links. After cutting it, I drill the holes for the three stainless steel shafts. I trace the link shape four times on another piece of plywood and cut them. Then, I screw the pattern on them and use the holes I made earlier as drilling guides. as drilling guides. Even if it’s unnecessary, I sand the edge of the links Now I can cut all the stainless steel rods for the links’ pivots, normal steel rods would also been OK for the whole jointer. When they’re cut I grind a small chamfer on their ends. To make sure every link has its hole at the same location, I insert three rods through all of them. It’s time to mill all the maple pieces to finish the parallelogram. After, with a drilling guide, I drill all the necessary holes in them. Here you can see the parallelogram assembled and working perfectly. Next I dismantle it and drill the mounting holes for the table and the frame. Then I can put it in place. On the lowest rails, I screw a piece of plywood which will hold the tilting mechanism screw block. Before I can put the infeed table on the parallelogram I must make four holes to clear the top of the links. I square up the corners with chisels. With a dowel centers finder, I find the placement of the table’s threading rod holes and drill them. Then I screw them, directly in the wood. I use a block to help me screw them straight. Look how great this works. Now I can make all the pieces for the crank which will move the infeed table. When the plywood for the crank is cut, I glue the pieces together along the threaded rod with epoxy. This is the block in which the parallelogram will move. I drill and screw four screws to hold the T bolt in place. Now, I just need to screw the block in place. Look how this works fine. I need to complete a couple of small things before I close the motor section. I cut and install the chip deflector around the cutter head, then I make an air baffle around the motor. I find its form by cutting a piece of cardboard to the right shape. Then I cut this shape out of a thin piece of plywood. Now I can take care of the dust port. The bolts from the motor pivot blocks are in the way, I cut a strip out of the dust port. With a small part removed from it, it fits like a glove. I just need to reglue both pieces together. To do so, I reglue the small part I removed on top of it with epoxy. Then with another cardboard pattern I find the shape of the belt guard, trace it on another thin piece of plywood and cut it to shape. To complete the guard, I glue some strips around its edges so the belt will turn inside. so the belt will turn inside. After installing the outfeed table, I mark the placement for the fence’s locking bolt on the fence’s base, at both ends. Then I drill the holes over the two marks I made. On the router table I rout a slot between these two holes. I make this in five passes, raising the bit in between each passes. After it’s completed, I make and assemble all the pieces needed to complete the fence. The last thing to do for the fence is the knob to hold it in place. The bottom part is cut with a whole saw and the knob part is cut on the bandsaw and finished on the sander. Next I drill a hole, smaller than the nut size, and jam it inside with a vice. I glue both pieces together to complete the knob. Now it’s time to work on the cutting guard. I use old wood for the cutting guard mount. After installing it to the infeed table, I cut the guard and glue its pivot. The jointer is almost finished. I only need to make a bevel on one end of each table top metal plate. After that, I clean the edges with a file. I also need to drill a series of holes on both metal sheets to be able to screw them to the table tops. After cleaning the oil from the metal, I can screw them. Finally I can try it for the first time. I take this opportunity to straighten the birch I bought for the base. I assemble the base with dominoes for speed and convenience, but the original plans call for dowels joinery. The back rail of the base is wider, so I can cut out the shape of the dust port. This way I can always remove it so the shaving can fall to the floor. After making sure the dust port fits, I glue the front and the back of the base. While the glue dries, I disassemble the jointer so I can put some finish on it. When it’s all apart and the glue of the base is dry enough, I can glue both front and back together. I sand most of the pieces to remove the pencil lines and the stains I made. I have a metal cabinet full of old paint but I have no green. So I mix yellow and blue to make a nice green color and paint some parts with it. Both tables are varnished with an oil base varnish. The rest of the pieces are varnished with a water based varnish. When the paint and varnish are dry, I install the casters and reassemble it together. Under both tables, I stick some tin foil to balance the moisture between the metal top and the bottom. Then I install the tables. Before screwing the metal sheets on the tables, I spray metal sealant under the sheet. Then I screw them in place. Next I spray sealant on the top also. But this time I rub it so the top will be slicker. Then I adjust the outfeed table so it’s 25 thou over the cutter head cylinder. I install the fence. the bellegarde and the gutter guard I stick some slippery tape on the edges of the cutter guard so the paint won’t stain the wood to joint and install it. After putting the jointer on its base, I screw it in place. And voila my new jointer is all finished. I just need to put it to work. If this kind of thing interests you, this is the rest of the four by eight sheet of plywood I used to build the jointer. I had to cut those two pieces out of another piece of plywood. This is an overview of the spending I made to build this jointer. On the final cost I added the small things I had to buy: the casters, glue, screws and other stuff. Here is my new twelve inch wide jointer. If you want to make one yourself, just do like I did and buy the plan at at woodgears.ca and believe me, you won’t regret it. Thanks and we’ll see each other on the next episode of The Woodpecker.

97 Replies to “The Woodpecker EP 44 Wooden Jointer”

  1. Good job, and saved a few thousand dollars too.  You will make some real nice things now that you have the capacity to mill those larger boards, congratulations.

  2. Alain, that is a great video and build! You take the time to reposition the camera to what is interesting for us to see and how your did it. Honestly, if I ever build a large jointer, your video is the one I will use first! What's most important is that you finally got to build the the Jointer of your dreams with your own hands. Something I know you will always be proud of.Thank You for sharing.

  3. Well done, I've built this jointer too, but I didn't buy a planer for parts, I bought a cutterhead from warranty service and a silent induction motor. Everything works fine on mine, once I set the blades correctly, but the setting itself is a nightmare for me. I do everything the same as Matthias and others on Youtube, but it seems that if I press on the table stronger (while setting) the blades go deeper in the head. After 15-20 tries – I finally set the blades right and then avoid using the jointer because I fear dulling the blades… ugh!

  4. Another great project.  I like the green paint, as a "woodgears" brand! 
    Are those not locking castor's!?  I would expect that it moves when you push on it.

    I think episode 45 might be Alain building a new shop … it's looking a bit crowded! 🙂

  5. Well done Alain!  Your videos are always fun and informative.  One thing I wish you would've went into would be calibration.

  6. Alain although you make it look easier  I can see lots of hardwork behind this project, but the end result is amazing and there you have a sound tool for years to come, thanks again for sharing.

  7. Almost makes me want to build one myself. Perhaps in a few years. So how well does it actually perform as a jointer? Thanks.

  8. Nice. But I get into a project and halfway thru get distracted, project never gets done. I have a half finished CNC in my garage. Been there for awhile. Enjoy your videos tho.

  9. You are a very skilled man, and I applaud you for the way you overcome the problems you encounter in this video. One word of advice: be very careful using the Angle Grinder in the workshop

  10. MacGyver that bad boy!!  Very ingenious and an excellent video.  I liked the length.  Some of these fascinating videos can't be long enough.  

  11. OMG Alain, i am from Argentina, and i had the same model of jigsaw. B&D with a mobile head that let you rotate the blade. Its an absolute crap. It made me for years hate all jigsaws, untill I finally got sick of it and send it flying of the window of my shop. Then i buy one of Dewalt, and was a eye opener. I realize that my old jigsaw was, in fact, a really bad design by B&D. Now, I use the new one almost every day, and coudn't be more happy with it. I sugest you do the same. BTW, your shop its going to be a dream one.

  12. Hi Alain,

    Thankyou for your great video. I am in the process (as we speak) of building this jointer using Matthias's plans. Your video is a terrific resource for me as my thicknesser – whilst branded Ryobi here in Australia, is exactly the same as your Mastercraft. It has been great having your video to supplement Matthias's useful guides, which I have drawn on heavily to modify my motor as per your approach by removing the extraneous gears etc so it fits in the jointer body. I am having a bit of trouble though extracting the cutterhead as I cant seem to get the bearings out by banging either end – It looks like I run out of space to push the bearings because the cutterhead hits the housing before the bearing makes it all the way out. I would be extremely grateful if you could please shed some light on how you managed to do this so effortlessly at your end – obviously I'm missing a key step, but dont know what it is (did you shim something between the cutterhead and bearing to add more push?). Any help you can provide would be greatly appreciated as my frustration with my lack of progress is now growing exponentially, and I am beginning to fantasise about taking a sledge hammer to this thing. Thanks again for your great videos, and what a terrific shop you are building! Regards, Steve.

  13. So ,,you in this video spend $ 480,00 for this jointer?? It is so expensive. I don't really see the reason to build this one , by my hands when with the $ 480,00 I can buy two thicknesser-jointers like this one and better….Really when I saw you to destroy a thicknesser just to experiment another one ,,for me it is a little bit of stupid,.

  14. Alors, dude, you SO need a better jigsaw!! lol…..I bet there's a few tabernac's thrown around when you try and use the one you have hahahha

  15. Great video, thanks for posting!

    I hope you have some brakes on at least two of those casters else you might be chasing it around your shop 🙂 speaking of which, looks like your next project is putting an addition on the shop, it's getting a little tight in there! (and don't we all want a bigger shop?)

  16. Love your videos Alain!
    If you did it again would you consider buying a carbide insert planer head and a motor separately instead of the full planer?

  17. Hello Alain.  First off I really enjoy all of your videos.  Second, I wanted to ask is this a difficult build?  I know you have woodworked longer than I have, but I am somebody of modest ability.  What would you say is the difficulty level of 1-10?  I have access to a scrap planer so I am thinking of giving this a try

  18. Good job but why would you even consider destroying a new 12 inch planer to make a jointer.  planner is designed for wide stock. so even if you have to flatten one side of a 10 inch board, now you still need a planner.

  19. @WV591 I have a better planer than the one I destroyed. But I didn't have a 13" jointer. Now I can joint 13" wide instead of 6"

  20. Like I said good job. I guess i never had a need to joint more than  2 x 4 we get around here. wider boards go in a planner.

  21. Tres Bon Monsieur !  You show us lots of different skills. Design, Pattern making, Metalwork, computer drawing, engineering thinking. The honesty of your little mistakes. Your way of working around problems. I like that you made a green paint from your secret cupboard. 'est-il votre garcon' at the end ? He should be proud of his versatile Dad. Brillante !

  22. Hi Alain, new subscriber here. Great job on the jointer – wish it was within my capabilities…
    Like your missing "H"s in pronounciation 🙂

  23. My God how can anyone be that handy : you are amazing Alain..is there anything you can not do ??

  24. super Bravo pour cette réalisation, qui est ingénieuse, et super bien réalisée. merci de partager, cela me donne envie d' en faire une ! car ma vieille degau n'a qu'un plateau de 20 cm de large ! on voit que vous maitrisez bien votre tarvail ! bien cordialement . Vincent in France

  25. When your jigsaw blade snaps off (which is always at the hole) just file it down until it fits in your jigsaw and continue to use the blade.  Since the hole is the weakpoint you wont have the same problem for quite some time…

  26. very good work. just wondering, as you bought a brand new planer for the motor and blade, wasnt it good enough to make the work? why had to build a jointer of it?

  27. Alain, in another video, you say that your accent is terrible. I disagree. I could listen for hours – predictably, it sounds rather sexy!

  28. Hi Alain, another interesting video, but for the life of me cannot understand why there are some people out there who only seek to play your work down. Keep up the excellent work and just ignore the other idiots, 🙂

  29. I'm thinking of building this but with a 3hp induction motor I have sitting around and a spiral cutterhead from Byrd… hmmm…

  30. Nice build and video Although i was suprised you bought a brand new thickness planer for this instead of salvaged parts from a used machine ? Alyjough i liked the overall engineering you used

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