45 Replies to “Watch This Video Before Installing Your Next Wood Fence Post – Money Saving Ideas”

  1. The old treated lumber from the early 90s is much better than the new copper pressure treated lumber. However you cannot get that wood anymore. We need better treated lumber, I believe it is not fabricated well today on purpose so the large stores like Home Depot and Lowes and the wood industry can sell more of it. If my fence fell down, I would build and use concrete posts with internal rebar, and treated cross members.

  2. Thomas Campbell I’ve been told just to fill in with the dirt dug out. Western power who provide power to property’s instal there wooden posts just in dirt as they say the concrete rats the wood faster

  3. So I take it you just hate ALL fenceposts, and you don't think any method for installing fenceposts is right!

  4. So the fence I'm about tho replace was installed in 1996, and it wasn't the best installation to begin with, yet it's lasted over 20 years. The posts are pressure-treated & placed directly in concrete, with about 1.5 foot depth, and we have heavy clay soil. I don't understand what this video recommends about pressure treated posts vs. redwood. Redwood is more expensive, and it sounds like you're saying redwood is not preferred? So that's a win-win in my book. The reason we're replacing it is only partially related to the quality of installation and materials, but appears to be mainly due to the length of the fence sections being too long. Inevitably things get leaned against the fence, it get bumped into from time to time, and as a closed design, it gets buffeted by strong winds. I plan on putting half-again as many posts this time, and I think this will tend to make the structure far sturdier and long lasting. I guess I'm saying that one shouldn't skimp on the design; MORE posts can't hurt, and will tend to make some of the other issues less vital.

  5. 1st, use Oversize treated posts.
    2, Tar very well the bottom/side of a post (to above ground)
    3, fill w/ some gravel the bottom of hole on clay soil.
    4. concrete completely.
    5. hardy plank and caulk n paint.
    6. 30+yr post

  6. Concrete is the worse option since it retains water much longer than gravel and offers absolutely no protection against water from reaching the fence post. Best option is to apply a tar-asphalt sealant to the bottom of the post that below grade so that it prevents water from reaching the wood. Than secured in gravel. Even in Clay soil, gravel will increase the surface area for drainage and also help secure the post from movement during spring thaw when the ground becomes real soft.

    FWIW: Asphalt coatings have been used on pipelines to protect the from rust. If its good enough to keep pipes from rusting after 30 to 50 years, its going to work on your fence post. Just be sure to apply the coating fully and give it time to cure.

    Ideally if you want your posts to last you also need to paint them so that the above ground elements does not cause them to decay. If you paint your posts, be sure to let them dry out for 120 days before painting. Especially for the pressure treated posts which are stocked soaking wet at the lumber yard.

  7. Let me give you something to think about. Two years ago we decided to build a detached garage in our back yard, so we had to remove the pressure treated wood fence to provide construction access. The pressure treated 4 x 4 posts were set in 1985 in concrete on each side of the two gates and at the ends. The posts in between were set in clay soil only. Every one of the posts set in concrete broke off flush with the concrete when removed. Every one of the posts set in clay soil had no visible rot. The fence was installed in 1985 and removed in 2016, so the posts lasted 31 years. The posts set in concrete were at end of life and the posts set in clay soil look like they would last another 30 years on the buried portion.

  8. All this is hogwash crap, do what the old timers did to cattle pastures and such , they have wood fence post over 80 to 100 years old. What u need to is stain your wood with 100% used motor oil or use a 50/50 mix of used motor oil ( free and natural ) and diesel fuel … for the post that’s in the ground part , use also after your stain treatment use roof coating but do not put the roof coating on the very bottom so water can drain out . Your post will last 50 years at least .. every 3-4 years may have to do your oil stain treatment wich is free, save your used motor oil .

  9. People think they can install their own fence like it's some kind of fun weekend project. These are the same people who have fences that need to be torn down and installed properly.
    I am not good at framing houses and generally, Carpenters are not good at installing fences.
    I watch these videos occasionally, and every one I have seen is misguiding and incorrect.
    Concrete on wood posts is a bad idea, you only need dirt. I use it on gate posts only.

  10. In Canada we have strict federal, provincial and municipal building codes governing fence construction due to severe temperature fluctuations and moisture conditions from rain, snow and soil conditions. Post depth, drainage, buried wood treatment and anchoring materials vary greatly depending on your particular conditions. Check with your building department before you plan your project. Building a fence yourself can be a fun, educational and cost saving project….but, you don't want to have to do it more than once every 40 years.

  11. The old ranches in my area have fence posts made of split rails and the ground ends are charred in a fire so that the ground contact is at least 1/2" of charred wood. These posts last for over 100 years buried in the ground.

  12. So in summation you don't really recommend jackshit for fenceposts… do you just recommend not using fenceposts at all…thats the impression you clearly give

  13. I been waterproofing the part of the post that goes in the ground and at least 6” above before setting them

  14. Use a vacuum bag to infuse a good polyurethane spar varnish into the fibers of the post, gives them the quality of wood with the durability comparable to a water impervious plastic.

  15. I've replaced garden fence posts that were set in concrete. The old posts were rotted from the damp soil around the base.

    I pulled the old stubs out and installed the new posts in the existing concrete. New post bases covered in new engine oil and wrapped in bin liner to keep the damp soil off.

    The knack to getting the old stumps out.
    If the stumps are rotten, hack them out with a 4ft crow bar, the straighter end sharpened to form a chisel. Just hack away at the center, turning the bar with vice grips to break the wood up, forming a hole, then break the outer away by gently breaking the wood away from the edges of the concrete well.
    If the wood is sound, 8" M12 coach screw screwed into the stump, washer under the screw head and fit something like a rope carabiner on the screw to act as a pull. Tie a rope to the carabiner and fasten the other end to the crow bar and lever the post out.

    If there's water in the bottom of the concrete well, you can get it out with a small fish tin, vice grips and string to lower the tin down the hole.

  16. I live in the rainforest, where between moisture and termites a wooden fence post would last about three months. we use concrete fence posts( and utility poles) kind of a pain in the ass to install, because they're so heavy, but they don't rot or corrode and last decades.

  17. prob is fence post have to go in the the ground 70% it just a given. there is a really ez work around we do this on alot of jobs. go vinyl post sleeve. tight fitting ones work best.put few nails into just the vinyl at bottom do not block the hole on bottom.(helps bind to ground)ya want it cut how ever deep ya going. put it in pour,let set pull ya pole out any time ya want to change it … work smart not hard… or ya mount them above ground.

  18. If you want a fence you wont have to mess with for the rest of your life and is stronger. Never use wood, Use 2 3/4" drill pipe cemented 2' in the ground. painted with oil base paint. Same with patios and decks.

  19. Just make the posts out of steel, never get eaten, or make the whole fence out of steel, it will last forever

  20. Its a good topic but. The video spent 4sec. On the second to last option. Cement footer w/ galvinized post holder that keeps the post 1" from cement top. Over kill for fence but not for a building. Also no modern method like expanding foam was hit on.

  21. Most of the wood fences that I have seen the post start tilting one direction or another before the post would rot.

  22. I paint the lower section of my posts with asphalt emulsion aka tar, than I cement. Or, i wrap the bottom portion with asphalt shingles with a larger rock at the bottom, to keep the end off the dirt.

  23. Bolting a length of angle iron perpendicular to the wood post below the ground forming a tee-construction is also a solution worth consideration.

  24. All of these examples have problems. What is a good method of installing posts?? Should I just grow tall hedges?

  25. I think the gravel is a carry over from foundation work. Unless it provides drainage it has little purpose. On a foundation it provides a self compacting base to bear the load if the building, a fence does not need that. If it drains out, it could also provide protection from frost heaving by lowering the water below the frost line.
    I think for it to really provide much benefit it would need to be a trench that drains out somewhere.

  26. Instead of cement, what if you wrap the ends of the posts in plastic bags before burying them? Would that prevent rotting?

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